Did it with a guide service. Second favorite climb I've ever done after Aconcagua (since I/we arranged Aconcagua ourselves). Nice moderate technical climbing on the glacier, followed by that great walk to the summit at dawn. But geez, how can it be soooo cold that close to the equator!
Climbed from Nido de Condores in 6 1/2 hrs. Long and cold. Only technical part is the 60 degree slope where I used two tools to lead the group. Placed one picket and one screw for running belay. On descent, we rapped off. Only tricky because you have to cross a crevasse (not so solid snow bridge) at the base to get on this slope. Summit ridge was fantastic. Not exposed as some people made it out to be.
We had the entire high camp and summit day to our selves. It was fantastic. Personal high altitude for me.
Long but easy climb. 6h from Nido de condores to the summit.
Great view of La Paz and the altiplano during the night ascent.
It was a long haul, but we made the summit.
One of the coldest climbs I've done. Frozen sunscreen, frozen food (nearly broke my front teeth on an apple up top), icy beard.
But incredible views!
p.s. If you're here, PLEASE don't hand out candy to the kids begging in the low villages.
We climbed a more direct route, over the ice-cliffs. This was possible as it was earlier in the season
the most dificult moment is to get in the high camp. Here is about 1500 meters trek to get there from the base camp.
"Yeah !!! we made it, the highest we´ve ever been. Thanks a lot ... to Eulogio And Luis, you´re great guides. To Bolivian Journeys and its Managing Director Marco Soria ... you´re the best !. www.bolivianjourneys.org e-mail:email@example.com"
unfortunately after two weeks of fine weather at this day clouds came up and we had to turn around 50 m below the summit because of the storm. But nevertheless it was a great day at my highest - and most cold - mountain. The snow was very hard but you could walk very safely with crampons