Flew into Quito around midnight, bussed and hiked up to the hut the next day, then summited in a bit over an hour the next morning -- it's a really short climb. Fresh snow overnight and clouds meant no views, and no shot at Iliniza Sur the next day. :-( Trip report.
summited with 16 runners of our trail running team ... what a day!!!! it was snowy, as all over Ecuador ... this season is really strange, but seems to be an allover phenomenon.
Baños Trail Running BTR
I was on my fourth straight day of climbing and the 15k level had been slowing me down. Weather was very cloudy with no views but the rain and ice pellets held off until about 10 minutes after our summit. This was a single day climb and it took almost 8 hours round trip which included a long lunch at the refuge. We took the scree slope down while my boots filled up. Fun mountain.
Me plus guide made it to within 50m of the summit but we witnessed and narrowly missed a rock fall down the last gully which would definitely have caused serious or fatal injury. There was no-one else on the mountain above us and so it was just a random fall, possibly caused by warming conditions or thunder. We decided not to risk going up any further, and took the direct N route down, but kept our eyes looking above us on the traverse as we had seen the rocks tumble all the way down across the traverse. Round time from and back to car park was just over 5 hours. In retrospect guess we started too late from the car park (around 11am - we got delayed) so probably should have started earlier or put up with a night in the refuge. Bottom line: all the comments on here about loose falling rocks are to be taken very seriously. Keep your eyes looking up the whole time, of course wear a helmet, but the size of the rocks we saw, even that wouldn't save you.
We went up to approx. 4.900 m and decided to go back due to upcoming storm and it was a good decision ... back soon ;)
good weather, pretty fit after our trail run activities, we did a quite fast ascent & descent. good weather.
Had heard bad things about the situation on the normal route - having to pay a ridiculous amount of cash for a ride to the start of the trail from El Chaupi, not being able to get by the ranger station without a guide, so we decided to instead follow a rough trail from the southwest I found on a wikiloc map. Long story short, it IS indeed possible to reach the refugio in one (long) day from this route, the start point of which is near a hairpin bend close to Plancha Loma on the Sighos-Pan American road. It is pretty difficult, however, & I wouldn't recommend it for everyone. GPS file & full report can be found elsewhere online. We didn't make the summit unfortunately, as we were caught in a snowstorm at the difficult climbing section just below the top, & without any proper gear decided it was too dangerous to continue. Great acclimatisation for Chimborazo.
Great climb prior to a summit attempt on Cayambe. Not too difficult, but rewarding to reach the summit. Do bring some gaiters if you intend to descend via the scree slope directly back to the parking lot at la Virgen. I did not and regretted that decision!
This has been my 4th successful attempt to the peak - first time with my son. We spent the night at the refuge - the weather was cold and dreary in the morning and we had decided to give up and head back. All of a sudden - around 8 AM - the sun had the best over the mist and clouds and the Norte appeared. We couldn't resist, and in spite of the very high winds, and glaciated conditions (which made for some interesting scrambling) we went for it. In slightly less than 2h we were on the top - awesome feeling as usual.
Did this as a training hike for Cotopaxi. Some of the more enjoyable scrambling I've done, especially since I didn't have to deal with route finding. Some ice and clouds near the top.
Left the refuge at 7:45 with light cloud cover and moderate winds. Reached the summit at 8:55 a.m. - fast and enjoyable scrambling! Back in the refuge at 9:30 a.m. after descending by the wide scree slope below the summit. The route felt like easy class 3 the entire way up, but with some considerable exposure around Paso de la Muerte. Climbed unroped with Ecuadorian guide Pato.
Spent the night at the Nuevos Horizontes refuge hut on Jan 2 and summited the next day. Fun scramble and killer views of Illinza Sur, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo.
From the climber's hut, a very nice hike and scramble up the ridge. Some mist and low clouds and thus not much of a view but a few sun spots at times. Great views of Sur at the start. Shortcut back to the hut on a dirt trail to the right of the ridge on the way back. First party up to summit with early start, several others followed that day.
Second failed attempt on Iliniza Norte; first time (cerca Nov 2012) via the normal route (La Virgen up the ridge to the refugio) abandoned because of an electrical storm about 10 mins below the summit (after the caneleta). We bailed and shortly after a group of about 20 Swiss bailed as well, our hiking poles were vibrating. This time we ascended via the "arenal", the last bit with very strong and icy winds, in fact strong enough that we bailed also shortly before the summit because the final push would have been too dangerous. Un dia será...
Thoroughly enjoyed this mountain and the route to the norte summit. Climb was varied with some scrambling in places and though I wasn't, some of our group were roped to the guides. Very narrow summit so didn't stay up there for too long!
topped out on a Wednesday and got a new altitude record for myself. The route was easy enough, and even though we had a guide with us, this peak can be obtained without one. Only if you are comfortable with route finding and have studied the map and know the route.
Drove from Quito early in the morning and didn't start until 7:40. Started out in nice weather, but at the refugio clouds had come rolling in. We decided to continue, but weather kept deteriorating and we heard some distant thunder. Next up was a hailstorm. The fastest way down was to continue to the scree, so we pressed on. At the exit it was just 5 min to the top, so we decided to go there anyway. Maybe a bad choice, because the camera was electric, I got an electric shock from my poles and the rocks were buzzing. Not cool! We razed down from the mountain and didn't pause until 200-300 m down the scree. An "interesting" first 5.000 for me.
Climbed from near parking area to refuge (2 hours), then 2 more hours to summit. Cloudy from refuge and up, but no snow on route. Great views of Cotopaxi and Iliniza Sur.
Fun scramble on last 80 feet to summit. Arenal on the way down.
Sebastian and I slept in El Chaupi at a hostel Friday night. Started the hike late due to confusion with regulations at the park entrance so we got to the refuge at 11 am where I dropped off my gear for Sur. We made it to the summit by 12:45, had a nap on the summit, and returned to the refuge. There was hardly any snow until later that night long after everyone had left the mountain.