Very fun climb! Detailed trip report here.
North Face Route (AG III / Class 3). A very fun climb.
Last preparation for Peru. Great climb, ice was quite fragile, difficult to belay and secure. We were short in time and crossed 100 m before summit to normal route for descent.
route in good conditions, weather could have been slightly better.
Climbed December 24, 2014. I climbed Illiniza Sur for the first time in November 1990. It has really lost of lot of its glacier since then
Dirty ice. No views with the weather.
Just before Cotopaxi!
good for acclimatization...
From what I gathered reading the Illiniza Sur page I thought the climb would be technical and though. However, conditions were excellent and no belaying and rapelling were needed. At the rock gully I lowered the client and downclimbed, since the rope was too short for me to rapel. The worst part was definitively the moraine...
Left the refuge at 4:00 a.m. under thick clouds and light rainfall. The rain stopped by the time we reached the rock gully leading to the lower glacier, and the clouds began to thin out as we began climbing the snow ramps. The climbing was steep and sustained but secure on perfect, crisp, supportive snow the entire way. Apparently the mountain has been experiencing exceptionally good snow conditions these past few weeks. Guide placed pickets and belayed three pitches, we simultaneously climbed the rest. Reached the summit at 6:30 a.m., and were back in the refuge by 8:00. No rappelling on the descent, except for that slippery rock gully below the glacier. An enjoyable, rewarding climb! Climbed with Ecuadorian guide Pato.
Very early start from the hut but decent snow conditions on the route. Some navigation around crevasses and VERY steep climbing in a few sections to the summit but rather short. Clouds dominated as they had on Corazon and Norte so no view. Some light snow during the climb. Summit around 7, back to the hut around 9/9:30. Rocks on the way down with the new snow were a bit frustrating and tenuous.
Started at 5:00am from the refuge, had a beautiful sunrise and sea of clouds when reaching the glacier atop the gully. Weather turned quickly and we decided to go down after the first ramp, 200 meters below the summit. The softened snow on the way down confirmed it was the best choice.
Could hardly sleep due to the terrible leg pains that came out of nowhere. No matter, we woke up about 2 and made it to the summit in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. We had to wait at the summit doing push-ups and shadow-boxing to stay warm as we waited for the sunrise. I must say it was the best view of Ecuador I've had with everything from Cotacachi to Chimborazo in view — absolutely gorgeous.
Climbed w/Joe Miller, one of my favorite climbs to date. Epic views and exposure in places from the valley below.
Acclimatised on Illiniza Norte the day before, so after a second night in the hut, we set off at 3am across the scree. Great climbing up the steep snow/ice ramps, over/around a few crevasses and soon enjoying the views from the summit. Rappelled 3 times on the descent, and quickly hiked from the glacier access gully back to the refuge, as a few melon-sized rocks started falling from above :-/
Had the mountain to ourselves all day :-)
it was a nice climb, somehow a little too dificulte for my partner, but we made it to the top. Great views toward the other volcanoes.
Awesome climbing into the unknown. With the route descriptions being useless, no map, and visability less than 60 feet it felt like a great adventure. This was my favorite climb I have thus far attempted in Ecuador.
Climbed the beautiful Normal Route in one day from the truck. 8 hrs RT with an amazing sunrise above the clouds. One of our best climbs in Ecuador! A must-do.
Rafael (ECU), Alvaro (ECU) and I left from Quito at 3:00 am and head for Illiniza Sur.
We started our hike from La Virgen parking lot at 5:30 am and got to the refuge two hours later.
We started the climb at 8:30 am. Nice weather and cold temperatures. The new snow was very good consolidated.
Fun and steep pitches. I led more of half of the climb followed by Alvaro (roped up with me) and Rafael. Our snow pickets were very useful during the climb.
We took a straightforward route up to the summit, no traversing involved, so we climb some steep walls.
We reached the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 11:30 am. Rafael, Alvaro and I stayed up there a few minutes and headed quickly down before the snow starts to soften.
Again, very happy.. I summited Cotopaxi the prior day :).
Climbed with Marcial as guide. Visibility was poor and fresh snow made the route hard to find. As a result, Marcial couldn´t find the normal rock scramble that leads from the saddle between the Ilinizas to the glacier, so eventually we just went up a steep bit of rock somewhere further west than usual. Marcial was leading, so he had to do the hard part here, I just had to follow. On the way back down, we followed the normal route, which was definitely easier.
That same fresh snow, which made walking physically demanding, also made the steep face a piece of cake. The rock scramble was the crux of the climb.
Normal route still ok at this point in time; however, some front pointing is required and there was only one narrow path around the big crevasse halfway up.