Spectacular weather and the funnest peak overall in our short trip to Ecuador.
Climbed with Dustin and a guide named Fernando. Took the long way down by the lake then up to the glacier then direct up the ridge. Awesome climb perfect weather.
Coral (USA) and I left the refuge at 4:00 am. Diego (SPA) came along with us during the climb.
It took us more than 40 minutes to negociate our way up thru the boulder field located at the base of Illiniza Sur.
The mountain was very icy on the first ramp. It felt awesome to place my two technical piolets on it. Coral and Diego followed at good pace.
We got to the summit (5,263 m / 17,267 ft) at 7:30 am. after 3 and a half hours of fast climbing. Love this kind of climbs!
The snow softened a lot on our descent from the summit. But ice conditions were perfect on the first ramp. We placed a few ice screws on the way down. Nice pitches.
Climbed the Direct Route with Bighornmonkey. This was my favorite out of all the volcanoes we climbed in Ecuador during this trip (Chimborazo, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Illiniza Norte, Ruminahui).
Started from La Virgen Camping Site. Benno (Switzerland), Cristian (ECU) and I guided a group of 5 germans.
We left the camp site at 1:00 am and hiked up to the refuge where we got ready for the climb.
We climbed the steep ramps up to the summit (5,263 m/17,267 ft). A tough climb with great views of other Andean mountains.
I guided Ralph and his wife Andrea, an experienced german couple. It took us 7 hours to summit from La Virgen Parking lot, and 2 and a half hours to get back to the camping site.
Climbed Iliniza SUR (La Rampa/Direct Route), then NORTE on the same day. Good snow coverage prevented rockfall on the direct route which I was told makes it dangerous these days.
We came down the same way we went up after a 5:00am start from the hut.
I made a youtube video of the climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD87z5DEoYM
Guatemalan team split on this volcano, Edgar returns without the summit. Heloise(FRA) and Boris (ECU) guided to Siomara (GUA) she was very slow that day. Jose (ECU) and me reached summit a couple of hours before. Great views in the climbing but over the top just a few seconds with good visibility.
The route is very nice but you need to be fast because of wet snow during the day. Nice place, widhout any other climbers.
Our slowest climb ever in Illiniza Sur. It took us 8 and a half hours RT from the refuge. Ice/snow conditions weren't the best due to the softness of it on the final approach to the summit.
This climb was done with Heloise (FRA) while guiding a team from Guatemala, Xiomara and Christian. One of them (Edgar) got AMS and had to be lowered to the refuge just minutes after he started climbing up.
Very fast climb to the summit, 2h15 from the refuge. Weather was perfect as the view of the surrounding mountains.
Climbed with Heloise (FRANCE). We climbed both peaks, Illiniza Norte and Sur the same day.
A very intense mountain to climb. A magnificent mountain. Water at the hut was awful.
There was lots of snow on the route making the conditions pretty good for a summit bid on this day. My first glacier climb in Ecuador was a success. La Rampa Route had no snow on it.
One of my best climbs of Illiniza Sur. Good weather and perfect snow conditions. Cravasses were visible and ice bridges very compacted.
Climbed with Jana (Czech Republic). Views from the summit were awesome!
Great climb! My guide and I left early (4am) and had good snow conditions, but it was much worse on the descent as it became quite warm. The summit was cloudy, so there were no good views, which ended up not mattering since I accidently formatted my camera and lost the pictures from the first 5 days. I guess I'll have to climb it again!
As we plodded up the normal route in gore-tex, a platoon of Ecuador reserve troops past us up to the refugio and back in sweats. Their fitness things in perspective for our group.
We were turned around by extremely high winds a little below 17,000, but the trip is highly recommended.
we have to give up at 4800 m (bottom of glacier) due to heavy snowfall during the night, that made the exposed traverse to the glacier dangerous. no more ice on the former direct route, which has completely melt...
hike on iliniza norte then to replace sur
OSAT group -- what a wonderful route, nice glacier route. Probably the best moderate (i.e. no ice protection required when we did it) steep glacier climb I've ever done.
Me and my frien Alexandre reached the top in bad wheather conditions.No views....The summit itself is an instable cornice.
5 hs from the hut at 4700mts.
We camped next to the refuge. Luckily there was no one there to keep us awake! At the time I didnt have a sleeping bag and my friend forgot to bring me one! So I rolled up in a good quality space blanket, put on all my coats and stuff and made an ok night out of it. I am unsure of the route we took, "Uncle" Rick was looking around for the route as he had not been there in a while. We ended up rock climbing up a small section which led right to the glacier. On the glacier we had another rock climb, made awkward only because of the boots and crampons. I thouroghly enjoyed this climb, and the summit was the coolest one I've seen yet. The view was great!
Cloudy summit, the last part was terrible, there was powder snow that made the last part seem endless. The refugio is not very nice, I think it is better, as we did, to bring a tent and camp next to the refugio.