Imja Tse (Island Peak) Climber's Log

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ye2bnik - Nov 21, 2017 8:44 am Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2017

Good climb in perfect conditions  Sucess!

Very nice and bit challenging climb. Started from BC at 1.30am, on the top after less than 6 hours. Fantastic view from the top!


Frank - Apr 12, 2017 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2016

Island peak, what a view  Sucess!

Nice climb. Took us about 4 hrs. from BC to the summit. Clear sky, so awesome view on the surrounding mountains. Lhotse face is impressive!


rocky29oct - Nov 19, 2016 10:46 am Date Climbed: May 14, 2016

Great mountain  Sucess!

This is a great mountain with amazing views.


MountainDuck - Apr 9, 2016 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Apr 25, 2014

Normal Route - Perfect Day - Turned around

Got to 20000 feet (about 6100 meters) & made the decision to turn around as partner was showing early symptoms of altitude sickness.

Peak Freak

Peak Freak - Jan 16, 2016 1:14 am Date Climbed: May 24, 2014

Spontaneous!  Sucess!

Was trekking in Nepal and trying to figure out what to do next... Met a fellow on the summit of Kala Pataar who was en route to Island Peak. We re-connected the next day in Dingboche, and I accompanied him to Chukung, where it turns out I could rent gear, get a permit, and join a team for the climb the following day. We were the only 7 on the mountain, and all 7 of us made it to the summit together!


kunlun - Nov 20, 2015 8:05 am Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2015

An interesting climb but not too hard  Sucess!

A little cold at BC but the weather was great at the summit. I had climbed Mera prior to Imja Tse so didn't have much trouble with the altitude. Took around 11 hours BC to BC at a leisure pace.


whatdoIknow - Nov 13, 2014 9:10 am

good day  Sucess!

great view from summit


Cissa - Nov 1, 2014 4:41 am Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2014

Normal route alpine style  Sucess!

Climbed without fixed ropes or sherpa support from BC, amongst some hostility from some sherpas for doing so. Headwall was about 200m and then a short walk to the summit in a narrow ridge. I'd say that climbed free this is in the AD-/AD range. Perfect weather and not too cold.


jasperreed - May 14, 2014 1:10 pm

Normal route  Sucess!

Easy climb in perfect conditions (May 2013) with a local guide. Terrible fixed ropes (cheap plastic twisted ones that you use to tie things to a trailer) which barely caught in the jumar and horrible ancient anchors but Thankfully I didn't plunge to my death. In chukkung I set up a z pulley just for something to do and some local guides came over and stood around watching with no idea what I was doing. If safety is a big deal for you and you want to do guided climbing in Nepal go with a western agency......


bechtt - May 13, 2014 7:58 pm Date Climbed: Apr 26, 2014

Normal route  Sucess!

Took us about 6 hours to summit from base camp starting at 1:20a. The ice ramp which now goes practically to the summit was very busy on the way down, even with three ropes. Some big crevasses in the glacier makes things interesting. Pictures


jonboy - May 2, 2014 11:09 pm Date Climbed: Nov 15, 2012

normal route  Sucess!

What a great experience. It took us quite a while to get up the head wall. I was surprised at how much rock scrambling there was before getting to the glacier. If I were to do it again, I think I'd rather start the summit push from high camp even though you'd have to haul your water up.


matous - Jan 8, 2013 4:47 am Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2011

normal route  Sucess!

we used no ported no guides. we slept at high camp to escape the crowds, but be warned no water at high camp...


punchline - Nov 23, 2012 11:55 am Date Climbed: Nov 1, 2012

Normal Route  Sucess!

Beautiful but long day - left "base camp" at 1:30am to try to avoid the crowds. Unfortunately most everyone was en route around that time. About 50 people on summit this day and we had to sit and wait at the bottom of the headwall for awhile. Interesting in that we have relatives that climbed about 6 years ago and they barely recognized the route in the photos we shared. It appears that the crevasses after the "crampon up point" are getting bigger each year. In fact we heard that the Sagarmatha National Park officials may have to either determine another route or fix ladders across some of the bigger cracks. Will try to post a few photos soon.


Kicki - Oct 9, 2011 4:14 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2011

Normal route  Sucess!

From high camp to summit! A fantastic experience!


danleach - May 11, 2011 5:25 am

Normal Route  Sucess!

As part of a 5 week independent trek


johnp79 - Feb 22, 2011 6:55 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2009

Normal Route  Sucess!

Left base camp around 3:30am. Headwall was tough but a lot of fun (first time using an ascender). Had the summit all to ourselves and were the last people on it that day. Absolutely beautiful scenery.

Island Peak 2009


mipoddu - Feb 8, 2011 11:31 am Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed the normal route, from high camp. Unfortunately the bad weather did not allow to enjoy spectacular views.



nattfodd - Nov 12, 2010 8:21 am Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2010

Huge crowds  Sucess!

Island Peak is becoming a bit of a circus. There were more than 70 people on the mountain, with over 30 on the summit at the same time. The climbing itself is easy and straightforward, and the headwall shouldn't require a fixed line at all - it is only 40-50 degrees and a fall would stop quickly in a snow basin that didn't seem crevassed. Gorgeous views of the Lhotse-Nuptse wall from the top.


icypeak - Apr 25, 2010 3:55 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2010

Close..but not...

We started our climb at 2 am after a snow storm the night before, which made navigating the first part on the rocks a little tricky. But that was the least of my problems, sadly, upon reaching 6,000 m (ok, it was actually 5,980 but rounding is ok no?) I had to retreat. I had been fighting a terrible cough (which turned out to be bronchitis)which made breathing difficult. Anyway, the climb was still beautiful (between all the dramatic huffing and puffing) and the scenery unbelievable!

Tom Waggoner

Tom Waggoner - Mar 17, 2010 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed Island after completing the Annapurna Circuit. It was my first time above 20,000ft. One of the best mountain experiences of my life. Thanks Ben for inviting me!!

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