This peak is too popular and can become dangerously busy in October. Despite this we had perfect conditions and snow conditions and we felt great on the summit. For a less busy peak of comparable grade (perhaps a little bit harder) try nearby Lobuche East.
A beautiful climb with my young son, Aidan, and two Sherpas. It was his first snow climb at these elevations and as others have said, this mountain serves as an excellent introduction. We brought ropes to fix but did not need them as fixed lines were already in place on the headwall and other climbers very gracious about their use.
We started at 2am from our high camp and reached the snow line at 3:45am. We then reached the fixed ropes at 5:30am. We made it to the top of the ridgeline by 6:00am for a beautiful sunrise and we were on the summit at 6:19am. Overall I thought Island Peak was a very easy climb and I climbed it with food poisoning. I look forward to climbing a more challenging peak the next time I'm in Nepal.
~ Jason Maehl
See the trip report and pictures here:
I had tried to climb Imja Tse twice before. In 2002 I caught a lung infection as early as Dingboche and "crawled" back to Lukla and kathmandu. In 2003 whilst leading a group, one member became ill at Chukkung and I took her down. So, this time I tried alone with a Sherpa friend and it all seemed quite easy. But, that's the way it is with mountains sometimes!
Went to high camp after 2 days in basecamp, got up and started climbing at 02:30, got the crampons on at the glacier at first light and reached the summit at 07:15. A very nice climb, used fixed rope up to the summit ridge, according to our sherpas the snow/ice-climb was more difficult this year, probably more fun that way!
Got up to the summit ridge but was too sick to go on (gardia), although I enjoyed the climb up the ridge and the great views.
Summited on a perfect warm day, no wind. That changed the afternoon within an hour to a heavy blizzard. Next day nobody seemed to have reached the summit due to deep snow. I was not well acclimatized, so after a fast ascent I was totally exhausted the evening. We descended below base camp to sleep in Chhukhung. I can recommend that since you feel better the lower you sleep.
Best weather of the trek. Not a breath of wind on top. Summited 09:10 Felt great and wanted to keep going.
Amazing mountain - steep section getting up to summit ridge and another steep section just before the summit - beautiful view of Lhotse. Marc Pagani, Mimi Schippers, Urke Tamang
We started around 4:00 a.m. from the basecamp at Imja Tso. Passed the ABC at dawn and reached the summit at 10 o'clock. We were nine people, including two sherpas and there was only one other team at this time. Descent directly to Chukung via same route. For some impressions of this beautiful climb see my pictures.
A good outing, fairly straightforward climbing but enough to keep it interesting.
Organized my own little trip to several trekking peaks in Nepal in the spring of 1997. For Island, I hooked up with an Australian climber, Ian Hatchett, in Dingboche. I was coming from Mera and he from an unsuccessful expedition to Numbur. The climb was quite nice with a bit of technical interest while soloing the cliff up to the summit ridge. Fortunately this was only a few pitches tall because a group of inexperienced climbers from the UK & NZ were also there and Ian and I ended up shepherding these fellows back down the mountain.
We did have a beautiful day, though, and were on top before the views became obscured by clouds. Absolutely stupendous place to spend some days, ringed in by a stunnning collection of peaks and glacial landforms.
See Dee Booth's "Mera" TR at:
We started at 4 am at the basecamp at the moraine and tumbled the loong hang upwards to the beginning of the glacier. Using a rope there seems to be not common in the Himalaya. The steep ascent to the summit ridge was well prepared with fix ropes, done by a Sherpa who works for the german association "DAV Summit Club". Thank you! Using the fix rope was easy but exhausting, and so were the final meters along the ridge, also well prepared with ropes. 10,15 am on the summit.
The descent made me very tired, probably the acclimatization wasn't completed.
We reached the summit at 11 the 19. november 1999 in absolutely perfect conditions. I have also posted a trip report.
Stod on South Summit 10:39 am. The fog closed in immediately after. The Ice wall is more demanding the most people say.