Inner Schwarzhorn ( west of Surettahorn / Pizzo Suretta)

Inner Schwarzhorn ( west of Surettahorn / Pizzo Suretta)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.50684°N / 9.35823°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: mostly easy scrambling, some climbing
Sign the Climber's Log


The Inner Schwarzhorn (2984m) is the first significant peak east of the Splugen Pass (2100m)on the Italian/Swiss border. It lies west of the Surettahorn and many other easterly peaks that just make it to about 3000m.

Getting There

Splugen Pass. There is parking here.

Route Description

Followed the clear path from Splugen Pass to Bergseeli (lake). From here we then continued on the marked path to Lago Azzurro to try to climb up the E-W arete but where this steepens the climbing looks serious with lots of big loose looking rock. Here we changed plans and dropped down from the ridge and headed NE across the moraine/boulder field to the base of the better looking NW ridge.

The easiest route from the road to this NW ridge would probably be to the Bergseeli, then heading fairly directly east - lots of rock-hopping!

The NW ridge (marked in red on map) provides an great day out, the route up reveals excellent scrambling, plus 4-5 sections of easy roped climbing. The first, longer section starts very easily, then has a few climbs. There are probably several suitable routes up but we stayed generally to the right on way up. After a while the arete levels off and you cross scree to the last lift to the top. Again we trended to the right, just left of the chossy gully. There is some loose-ish rock to start with but it gets more interesting and leads to easier ground and then the top.

Well worth the effort, great views from the top onto the Ghiacciaio di Suretta. But when on the top the route along to the Surettahorn is very loose (huge balanced blocks)so we didnt traverse.

We down-climbed the same ridge we came up. As long as you are careful this is a reasonable undertaking and the routefinding is generally easy. The sections that we had climbed roped-up generally warranted a roped decent (there are occasional rock spikes you can make a direct rappel off but also take some tat you wont mind leaving). A really enjoyable mountain day!

Essential Gear

A short-ish rope 35m, we took 4 cams (cams are good), several hex's, a set of nuts & plenty of large slings (take some rappel slings/tat). A longer rope would make for a quicker rappel descent.



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