Inspiration S. Face, Southern Pickets
This is my third trip up Goodell Creek. the trail was in good condition, usual step across logs on climbers trail. Snow level was quite low which made hike in easier. Encountered first snow at 3,700 feet. Steep snow climb down into basin from pass was easy with only 30 feet of really steep snow.
On summit day (left at 5:30 am),the approach up the glacier was very straight forward, crampons useful especially on 50 degree toungue gaining toe of route on right side 2 pitches up from actual toe. First pitch 5.7 leftward leaning dihedral with some face climbing. Then it is easy low fith class all the way simul climbing up the ramp to the base of the "gash".
First pitch up the gash was 5.6 for 120 feet. starts up right and cuts back left. The 2nd pitch 5.7 to 5.8 for 140 feet is the jewel of the climb, exposed face and chimney with stemming. The third pitch we combined the first 100 feet of 5.5 then turning up a vertical 5.8 chimney with chock stone at top. Tunneling under chock stone immediately puts you on the west face and 40 feet from summit ridge.
13 Rappels are fairly straight forward. Start down west face for 5 rappels. Sure wish someone could work out a new anchor where you drop off onto S. Face. The prow you rappel off of puts you into free rappel you have to pendulum right to get to anchor. Work East to get to packs. We rapelled two more pitches to base of toe and over schrund to get back onto glacier which worked well. 14 hours round trip to high camp.
Bring doubles to 3.5 inches. Cams more than stoppers. Also bring extra sling to back up anchors.
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