12 hours car to car. Pitched out first 2 due to cold, than linked the rest of the pitches to top of IW. Than about 4-5 more to the summit. Great day, great climbing, awesome views, excellent partner.
Cool route. Casual to do in a day as there are tons of bolts and anchors are all fixed. Approach is pretty neat.
Started hiking at 6:15am. Took a slight detour when we cut left too early before the bush whacking section. Finally got on the route at 9:15am. We topped the 12th pitch at 3:15pm which included a 30 minute lunch at the bivy ledge. We climbed in the sun from halfway up the 2nd pitch until just after the big roof. My feet were hot for a few pitches but the temperatures were pretty great all day. It was a fun route. There are about 3 sequences of 5.10 and the balance of the 12 pitches is mostly sustained 5.8 and easy 5.9. Other notes: I cleaned a death triangle off the 11th pitch anchor. We got back to the car as a huge drum circle was getting started near the old campsite by the road.
Pretty nice route, particularly as the weather starts turning warm. Those first two pitches stay shaded most all the time. This section of Aeolian Wall gets afternoon shade. The first pitch seemed fine to me...probably much cleaner than it use to be after reading some disparaging notes on it. The 2nd pitch is by far the best climbing on the route...we combined 9-10 and 11-12, makes total sense to do so. The 9-10 pitch was really good for the 5.9 grade. Weird bivy bolt on the start ledge for that combination that can suck you left....make sure to pull the roof to the right of the belay. There is a bolt you can reach up and clip, but not that easy to see when you first arrive at the ledge. Another good weekend in Vegas with Joe A and beautiful women in our company.