Dow Williams - Jul 19, 2022 8:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2022
Irene's Arete
Yet another climb that seems to pull a higher alpine grade in the local guide book than it appears to be. I know one pair that took 12 hrs car to car, but I know them both to be speed adverse. Causally did the climb with Brad from Laramie 8 hrs car to car with plenty of time spent at the lake. We used the very obvious grassy ramp you see after maneuvering through the boulder field from the Garnet Canyon trail on your way to the Meadows. As soon as you are done with the boulders, load up on water and hike the grassy slope up to that ramp. As you near the base of the arete, cut back right and then back left to reach the tree at the base of the 1st pitch. You can run the 1st pitch to the base of the 2nd pitch with a small amount of simul climbing on easy ground therefore avoiding moving the belay. On the pitch 2 variation, between the 5.7 and 5.9 listed in the guide is a short 5.10 option, slightly overhanging fingers. There was a bail cam in this crack so I climbed this version to get it. This was the best climbing on the whole route. Stemming through clean fingers. It quickly rejoins the others. The 5.9 variation on the 3rd pitch was worth doing. It is soft for the grade, hard to identify the 5.9. It follows more of a plumb line straight up splitting the other two options listed in the local guide. The short 5.9 obvious finger dihedral straight up on the 4th pitch was the 2nd best section of climbing on the route. Way shorter and more straight forward than the other two easier options. The short left leaning crack that connects the ridge and starts pitch 5 offered the most exposure of the route. After that, a competent team could unrope to the top. Just follow the ridge line. The descent is very evident. Head southeast aiming for trails in the distant that hikers use to summit Disappointment peak. Multiple options down to the first lake.
McCannster - Aug 24, 2013 10:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013
Good Route
With Kiff and Colin. Led pitches 1 and 4.
seano - Feb 4, 2012 3:33 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2011
Dow Williams - Jul 19, 2022 8:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2022
Irene's AreteYet another climb that seems to pull a higher alpine grade in the local guide book than it appears to be. I know one pair that took 12 hrs car to car, but I know them both to be speed adverse. Causally did the climb with Brad from Laramie 8 hrs car to car with plenty of time spent at the lake. We used the very obvious grassy ramp you see after maneuvering through the boulder field from the Garnet Canyon trail on your way to the Meadows. As soon as you are done with the boulders, load up on water and hike the grassy slope up to that ramp. As you near the base of the arete, cut back right and then back left to reach the tree at the base of the 1st pitch. You can run the 1st pitch to the base of the 2nd pitch with a small amount of simul climbing on easy ground therefore avoiding moving the belay. On the pitch 2 variation, between the 5.7 and 5.9 listed in the guide is a short 5.10 option, slightly overhanging fingers. There was a bail cam in this crack so I climbed this version to get it. This was the best climbing on the whole route. Stemming through clean fingers. It quickly rejoins the others. The 5.9 variation on the 3rd pitch was worth doing. It is soft for the grade, hard to identify the 5.9. It follows more of a plumb line straight up splitting the other two options listed in the local guide. The short 5.9 obvious finger dihedral straight up on the 4th pitch was the 2nd best section of climbing on the route. Way shorter and more straight forward than the other two easier options. The short left leaning crack that connects the ridge and starts pitch 5 offered the most exposure of the route. After that, a competent team could unrope to the top. Just follow the ridge line. The descent is very evident. Head southeast aiming for trails in the distant that hikers use to summit Disappointment peak. Multiple options down to the first lake.
McCannster - Aug 24, 2013 10:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013
Good RouteWith Kiff and Colin. Led pitches 1 and 4.
seano - Feb 4, 2012 3:33 pm Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2011
Great climbAwesome, classic climb. Trip report
AriehDavid - Jun 8, 2011 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2000
best everone of the most enjoyable rock climbs of my entire life.
patascent - Aug 30, 2010 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2007
Super fun climbThanks Julia.
Sam Page - Apr 20, 2008 2:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 1996
FunThis was an enjoyable route. I was graced by having Rolo Garibotti clip into one of my pieces before racing past me.
bolojm - Jun 12, 2007 7:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2004
Great ClimbThis is a great, sustained 5.8+ with a touch of 5.10a near the top. I climbed this with the late Doug Coombs.
seth@LOKI - Aug 17, 2006 5:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1996
My best climb, and favorite multi pitch ever.But I'll try other things in the Tetons now. Brother Dirk kiced * on this one.