Iron Maiden Corridor, 5.8-5.12a

Iron Maiden Corridor, 5.8-5.12a

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02443°N / 116.15056°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Sign the Climber's Log


Dow leading Funny Money, 5.8*
Dow leading Funny Money, 5.8*

Behind Little Rock Candy Mountain, near the popular Echo Rock climbing area, is a significant formation named “Snickers”.  There is large scar/shallow canyon in the middle of the east face of Snickers, named the Iron Maiden Corridor.  Despite its proximity to the large parking lot for Echo Rock, this is a remote climbing destination in Joshua Tree.  You bushwhack to get into the narrow and shallow canyon via its wash from the east.   All routes can be walked off to the right except for its lone bolted route, When You’re Erect, 5.12a*, which can be continued to the top via the namesake for this area, Iron Maiden, 5.11d**.  The only real moderate to be had in the corridor is Funny Money, 5.8*, which is worth it if you are chasing a massive route count in the park, but the rock is not anything to write home about.

Park at the large parking area for Echo Rock.  Hike northeast out of the parking area circumventing Echo Rock on its east side and then Little Rock Candy Mountain on its east side.  Stay on trail and Iron Maiden Corridor will be the obvious canyon on your left.  Its routes are located on a wall that faces south but their lower half will receive shade from the opposing wall.  The western walls of this shallow canyon will provide some afternoon shade to this south facing wall as well.

Routes Listed Left to Right as Facing the South Wall

When You’re Erect- 45’-5.12a*/

Iron Maiden- 130’-5.11d**/

Funny Money- 115’-5.8*/ Almost twice the length as the local guide has it.  Start deep in the narrow wash in the corridor.  Chimney up and follow cracks to the sloped ledge above.  Start up the twin cracks on the left, then right, then back left.  Fairly dirty, but several good moves at the grade and thoughtful pro.  Gear belay.  Walk off climbers right.  Single to C4#2.  Off-sets handy.  Dow

Rock Shark- 80’-5.11a*/

Henny Penny- 80’-5.10d*/

When You’re a Jet- 100’-5.11cR**/