Dow Williams - Nov 16, 2018 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2018
Pinky and the Brain- 90’-5.9*
Fully bolted (10) route located by itself on the south side of the Isles in the Sky formation (circumvent the formation to the left and hike up to the base of the first south facing wall and locate the bolts). Follow the bolts up plated rock. The crux is comprised of the balance moves required up the first few meters through two bolts. The rest is mostly edging off of the patina. A few of the bolts make no sense and were not worth clipping. Trending left for most of the route. Fixed cold shuts on top. Dow
Dow Williams - Nov 16, 2018 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2018
Raven- 40’-5.8*
Fully bolted (3) route to a fixed anchor. Located from the ground up on the right end of Isles in the Sky. The bolts are kind of hidden, but there is a bolted dike named White Mamba that is easy to spot to the right of the Raven. Locate a well featured bolted face tucked away. Looks easier than it climbs, the holds are more thoughtful than what you see from below. True for the grade. Dow
Dow Williams - Mar 28, 2017 6:34 pm Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2016
Young Fire, 5.10c**
This is a link up of the bolted Young Guns (5.11d) and the ultra-classic trad route of Bird of Fire (5.10a). After the first four bolts on Young Guns and obviously before the 5.11 finish, traverse right through the huecos to finish on Bird of Fire. Very good sport climb finishing on the best move or two of Bird of Fire. The crux is approximately between the 2nd and 3rd bolts as I recall. Typical Jtree vertical slab: thoughtful footwork and intricate searching for finger edges.
Dow Williams - Oct 28, 2016 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2016
The Bees
I led all the Bee routes to the left of the Dolphin Corner. A new one that is not in any guide book as of 2016 goes up the arete just to the left of the Dolphin. Mixed with a piece of gear or two in the middle. A few bolts to start and a piton and bolt to finish. Crux off the ground and another slab crux at top. Maybe 5.9/10a. Dead Bees is fully bolted. Has a sandbagged finish on steep slab. Two moves near two bolts, both 5.10 vs 5.9. Nectar is an easy solo for Jtree 1000 route club, but the descent down the left side had a bolt removed that helped to protect an exposed steep downclimb section. I descended the west side of the formation, no worries, maybe mid 5th downclimbing without the same exposure as the east side. The Bee's Knees way more 5.9 than Dead Bees. Worthy route with some cool arete moves. It was my favorite of the group. Bee Gees has had the upper bolt(s) cut. Very stiff climbing through the remaining 3. I traversed right into Bees Knees to finish.
Dow Williams - Nov 16, 2018 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2018
Pinky and the Brain- 90’-5.9*Fully bolted (10) route located by itself on the south side of the Isles in the Sky formation (circumvent the formation to the left and hike up to the base of the first south facing wall and locate the bolts). Follow the bolts up plated rock. The crux is comprised of the balance moves required up the first few meters through two bolts. The rest is mostly edging off of the patina. A few of the bolts make no sense and were not worth clipping. Trending left for most of the route. Fixed cold shuts on top. Dow
Dow Williams - Nov 16, 2018 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2018
Raven- 40’-5.8*Fully bolted (3) route to a fixed anchor. Located from the ground up on the right end of Isles in the Sky. The bolts are kind of hidden, but there is a bolted dike named White Mamba that is easy to spot to the right of the Raven. Locate a well featured bolted face tucked away. Looks easier than it climbs, the holds are more thoughtful than what you see from below. True for the grade. Dow
Dow Williams - Mar 28, 2017 6:34 pm Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2016
Young Fire, 5.10c**This is a link up of the bolted Young Guns (5.11d) and the ultra-classic trad route of Bird of Fire (5.10a). After the first four bolts on Young Guns and obviously before the 5.11 finish, traverse right through the huecos to finish on Bird of Fire. Very good sport climb finishing on the best move or two of Bird of Fire. The crux is approximately between the 2nd and 3rd bolts as I recall. Typical Jtree vertical slab: thoughtful footwork and intricate searching for finger edges.
Dow Williams - Oct 28, 2016 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2016
The BeesI led all the Bee routes to the left of the Dolphin Corner. A new one that is not in any guide book as of 2016 goes up the arete just to the left of the Dolphin. Mixed with a piece of gear or two in the middle. A few bolts to start and a piton and bolt to finish. Crux off the ground and another slab crux at top. Maybe 5.9/10a. Dead Bees is fully bolted. Has a sandbagged finish on steep slab. Two moves near two bolts, both 5.10 vs 5.9. Nectar is an easy solo for Jtree 1000 route club, but the descent down the left side had a bolt removed that helped to protect an exposed steep downclimb section. I descended the west side of the formation, no worries, maybe mid 5th downclimbing without the same exposure as the east side. The Bee's Knees way more 5.9 than Dead Bees. Worthy route with some cool arete moves. It was my favorite of the group. Bee Gees has had the upper bolt(s) cut. Very stiff climbing through the remaining 3. I traversed right into Bees Knees to finish.
Liba Kopeckova - Nov 5, 2015 9:08 pm
great rockBird of Fire 5.10a and Dolphin 5.7 - both classic routes.