See the Main page. The route starts about 50 feet north of the south end of the west face. Look for the moon shaped flake system below and slightly north of the big roof above.
Pitch #1 - 5.9 - 160 feet
- Move up the nice right facing flake system jambing and liebacking as you go. Climbing is sustained in the 5.7 to 5.8 range with a couple moves of 5.9, and is very enjoyable. Keep moving up until you have to chimney up behind a large detached flake. Belay sitting on top of the flake.
Pitch #2 - 5.8 - 60 feet
- Jamb the straight in handcrack for a few moves and start traversing to the left. A couple airy low to mid 5th class moves brings you to a ledge below the massive Fun Roof.
Pitch #3 - 5.10B - 70 feet
- Jamb the corner crack to the base of the Fun Roof. Stem wide, place your gear, then crank sideways underclinging the crack below the roof, with 250 feet of air underneath you. Now reach around the corner for some holds and haul yourself up. Belay from the summit.
Pitch #3, Option #2
- At the ledge traverse to the south then exit via the south nose route. See Cooper Hiser route pitch #3 for details.
Descent: You can either rappel the standard chimney, or as follows: Rap from the south nose to the ledge system. Walk around to the east side and rappel at the bolts. A full 30 meter rappel will get you to the base of the Magnum Force. Do not try this with a 50 meter rope! Now walk around the corner to the west side and scramble down to the base of the west face.
A single set of cams to 4" and a set of nuts will work fine. Additional cams in the 2 to 3 friend size will help if you want to sew up Fun Roof.
60 or 70 meter rope
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