very interesting and exciting climb. we had the summit to ourselves.
Great climb, although hardly any snow. Crampons were not necessary.
What forjan said. This was my second "high altitude" attempt. Strangely I began feeling symptoms of AMS at around 13.5k. By the time we arrived at our high point (+15k) I felt a bit more than drunk and quite nautious. It took me a half of an hour to figure out the math regarding my ascent (I was going 200 vertical feet per hour with 1600' left to go). I had to make the humble descision to retreat. Altitude works in mysterious ways as I had completed a 5+ hour traverse at 15k+ just a few days prior to this climb. I will go back next year to complete the Mexico volcanoes.
Climbed with awagher. Our plan was to climb the Ayoloco route as a day hike, coming down via La Arista del Sol. We started at 2:20AM from La Joya. Lost a lot of time bushwacking in the dark in the section below the first saddle going through multiple cow paths. Partner came down with AMS and we retreated back to La Joya. Our highpoint was 4700m (15,420 ft), a bit beyond & above the Ayoloco hut. It was a cold morning (estimated upper teens before sunrise), but sunny and clear (no clouds whatsoever). awagher said he's planning to come back and try again.
Surprising little snow on the mountain. It's really just a hike up - didn't really need ice ax or crampons. Only snow to be found was on belly and chest glaciers. Still a beautiful mountain with amazing views. Unbelievable amount of people at La Joya starting Saturday morning - probably around 200 all told.
Guilty and I hiked to the Ayoloco Hut on 11/2/05 and then I got up and on the non existant trail around 3:45AM. I probabably got to the summit around 8AM, but couldn't be sure because Guilty had the watch. We crossed paths on my way down at the top of the Glacier. Once the sun came up, the weather conditions were actually very comfortable and excellent visability.
Very cold, windy and sunny. This is my second time up this mountain. Could smell Popo's sulfur all the way up. not good, gave me head ache.
I was only able to go as far as the "knees" thanks to hurricane Stan. We spent a night at the Altzamoni hut, then hiked the next day to the Grupo de Los Cien hut. My two friends turned around halfway up due to one of them having a kidney infection (undiagnosed at the time) . There was light rain and snow most of the time on the mountain. The next day, I climbed to the "knees" with about half an hour of clear skies on the way up. Despite he weather, I had a great time as it was my first big mountain.
Spent one night at the Knees hut. Spectacular views of Popo. No one else on the Mountain.
Fun route. Camped in the meadow below the Ayoloco hut in a nasty thunderstorm. Awoke at midnight to perfect snow and weather condtions.
My favourite mountain in Mexico! In spite of the bad weather... One-day climb.
This was a long day. We were told that the Arista route could be done in one long day. So we arrived at 8:30 am and tried to ascend via Ayoloco and the back via Arista. One of our partners bailed at the Ayocolo hut, we continued and finnally summited around 4pm. The glacier is very small, maybe 150m at most, and not very steep either (40-45 Degrees). It was very cloudy and hard to see the route along the ridge, so we decended the Ayoloco and were back at the trailhead around 9pm. We though we were stuck but luckily a truck was leaving the area and we hitched a ride back to Amecameca.
Good experience in my couse of middle mountain, the Teyotl to be down of the head of Iztlaccihuatl
Day climb from La Joya because the mid mountain hut was too nasty to sleep in.
Got a ride in a taxi up to La Joya from Ameca and stayed the night. Next day packed everything I had up to the hut in 2.5 hrs and then went on to the summit in another 2. Stayed the night at the hut to acclimatise better and headed on out to Tlachichuca. It was pretty windy up top, but very little snow and I never had to use crampons.
Good climb. Had to hike out to Paso de Cortez because our taxi driver said it would a lot more to come pick us up at the end of the climb. So we told him not to pick us up, hiked out, and got a free ride down to Amecameca.
Went from Altzomoni to the Grupo de los Cien refuge on our first day. The big packs made the hike anything but a joke. The hut was packed, so the area around ended looking like a tent jamboree. Second day was Saturday night, complete with a group of drunks singing (they didn'have good voices, and they didn't know the song's lyrics), firing fireckrackers, and a storm howling and pumping dust inside he sleeping bags, tents, cloths, etc. The morning brought some ice, freezing rain, fog and more wind. Out of the probably 100 or 120 climbers, only six of use made a bid for the summit. Made it to the Knee (5000 meters), and decided no to risk it no more. The conditions were horrible, it was a white-out, and it was very cold. I am very pleased with having reached my first 5000 meters elevation. Pico de Orizaba was waiting for me in only two more days.
Climbed solo after Kenny turned back. Bad weather and near white-out near top. Ended up being a very long day.
Beautiful weather, long trek. Amazing views of Popo.
Stayed at Altzomoni hut (very nice - must get keys at Paseo de Cortes).
Ayoloco hut still around. Republica de Chile hut does not exist. If climbing normal route, only option is Albuge de los Cien which is a tin covered structure which is overcrowded and dirty. Many camp but the entire area is a mess. don't expect to sleep inside the hut. better options are camping before the hut or up at the feet.
You must bring all your water with you making the first part of the climb a bit tough. I was planning on a 2 day tour (1st day from Altzomoni to Albuge de los Cien and then summit next day) and carried up 9 litres of water plus other food and gear. Ended up summitting in one day but was glad for the water anyway. I found some trustworthy locals to watch my big pack while I hit the summit. Otherwise, leaving behind gear can mean trouble especially on a weekend.
Compliments to a local climber, the original "pecho" summit is down off the first summit (with larger cross and other markings) across another glacier valley and the closest you can get to the "head". There is a smaller, cross here which may be snow covered. It is only about 10 - 15 minutes more but well worth it. From here you can see the ice wall route from the "head". Both "pecho" summits are after the Pico de la luna and Pico del Sol.
Locals report that climbing the "head" is suspect due to robberies, etc. starting the climb from San Rafael as that area of the national forest is not guarded.
See trip report for more details.
This climb was of two days, we camped in the knees, whe got to the summit at 6:00 am