Iztaccihuatl Climber's Log

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blueshade

blueshade - Apr 20, 2020 10:30 am Date Climbed: Mar 13, 2020

Ixta  Sucess!

First time being this high in several years. We were feeling fairly strong and pushed to get all three summit peaks in under 4.5hrs. Slightly tore something in my knee when I overextended on the way down so car to car time wasn't the best.

Pretty dry and easy conditions as well as comfortable temps.

adriaacarlos

adriaacarlos - Feb 22, 2020 9:23 pm Date Climbed: Feb 16, 2020

Ruta Ayoloco - Cumbres Sur y Poniente  Sucess!

My team of 4 hiked up Ruta Ayoloco.
We began our ascent on the Cruz de Rosas route around 2pm and arrived to Refugio Otis McAllister that evening. The next morning we began our hike up the Arista past the Panza. We stayed on the far left side of the Arista rather than the center (where I have hiked up before) in order to avoid the last few meters of potentially dangerous terrain. The left side of the Arista is much more noble and feels more like hiking a sandy steep trail rather than a rocky slide. The mountain is unfortunately losing all of its glaciers so I guess this is the new normal. Glaciar de Ayoloco is basically dead and the other two prominent glaciers are deeply scarred and full of crevasses.

AnniinaH6C9trXd

AnniinaH6C9trXd - Jan 6, 2020 2:58 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2019

September climb with very snowy and icy conditions

Climbed with a friend of mine who had never climbed anything that high or with ice/snow. Rented crampones from 2thesummit in Puebla.

Note to the original post: We came from Cholula by bus to Xalitzintla, there are very regular minibuses. From there, at least what they told us, there are no taxis driving to La Joya, but a bus that goes to Amecameca every 1-2 hours, pretty much once they get a couple of customers. This last trip costs 100 pesos per person, no matter if you go just to Paso de Cortez or all the way up to Amecameca. You can also do it the other way around if coming from DF.

We walked from Paso de Cortez- its' a very nice easy walking trail with informative tables. We climped past La Joya (where the was nobody) until it started raining and pitched our tent between La Joya and "the saddle" that is the first point from where you can see all the way to Puebla. Don't camp there at the saddle as it's very windy - there are some spots before. I also wouldn't recommend to stay at Refugio de los Cien hut as it's in disgusting condition.

We didn't start until 4:30 am as it was raining. As the rain decreased but it was very foggy, we made it to Refugio de los Cien hut in 2 and half hours, where the conditions were very snowy - the snow level started already half an hour before the refugio. There is some easy scrambling from the refugio until the "knee" of the sleeping woman, but the conditions made it a bit hard especially for my totally unexperienced friend - there was very low visibility, it was snowing sideways with strong wind and during the entire climb there was a lot of snow and ice. We didn't make it up to the old broken refuge at the "knee" just over 5000 m until 10 am, and the clouds disappeared from up there for just 10 minutes. It was all worth it - we could see Popo, the glacier and the peaks that would still come. As it was so late and bad storm was forecasted to start at 11 am, we started descending. No one else climbed that day. It was tough going down as the snow and ice started to melt and it got very slippery. Without crampones this would have been completely impossible - already before Refugio de los Cien hut we were slipping in the snow/mud/ice and had to put crampones. Would def recommend a helmet ad many loose rocks, in ice conditions also an ice axe comes handy.

All in all quite difficult conditions that could have turned dangerous, but I would definitely climb to Izta again as it is very beautiful mountain with interesting climbs - I would claim it more interesting than Pico de Orizaba. Didn't make it to the top but all worth it.

halfotinos

halfotinos - Dec 20, 2019 1:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2019

La Arista del Sol  Sucess!

Great day, left La Joya early at 2:00. Crampons were good to have for the belly, but otherwise there was almost no snow or ice on the peak. Weather was perfect the whole day, and the sunrise toward Orizaba and La Malinche was impressive, as was Popo spitting out plumes of smoke in the background. Ended up climbing all three peaks along the rim; not sure which was highest but at least we know for sure we summited.

eli.boardman

eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 10:19 am Date Climbed: Dec 24, 2017

Unguided, arista del sol  Sucess!

Made the summit less than 24 hours after leaving Puebla; first-ever 5,000-meter peak

Wallylongridge

Wallylongridge - Nov 3, 2017 7:04 pm

Izta  Sucess!

A couple of days on the Peak!

dino61111

dino61111 - Jan 21, 2017 6:35 pm

First trip to Mexico  Sucess!

I climbed this wonderful mountain after first climbing La Malinche. In low visibility conditions got twisted around and wound up descending the glacier route. Thank goodness for crampons.

Kessler

Kessler - Jan 8, 2017 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2016

Las Rodillas  Sucess!

12-19-2016

Scott

Scott - Jan 1, 2017 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2016

Las Rodillas

Kessler and I had planned to climb Iztaccíhuatl over two days, spending one night at the Albergue/Altzomoni Lodge. We made the fateful decision to leave the tent back in Amecameca, which was a big mistake!

Since we were only planning on an acclimatization hike today, we arrived at the La Joya Trailhead late morning. It was there that we found out that in order to stay in the lodge, we had to get the key back in Amecameca! Since we were supposed to meet friends in two days, we didn't have time to go back and get it! (Later we found out that we may have been able to retrieve a key at Paso de Cortes?).

We contemplated sleeping under the stars or up at one of the huts, but we had brought our suitcase with us. We didn't want to leave it out in the open. We found a place to hide much of what we had and started up the mountain.

The weather was perfect, but with a bit of wind and we made our way quickly up the mountain. We made it up to "The Knees" a.k.a. "Las Rodillas" at about 5000 meters before it was time to turn back. The Knees is only about 200 meters lower than the main summit, but it would have been a long walk to get there. We did well considering the very late start. There was a little snow around, but not that much.

We descended back down the mountain to La Joya, where we caught a ride back down to Amecameca in the back of a very crowded pickup. It wasn't comfortable, but we were very grateful for the ride.

Yulia Zi

Yulia Zi - Nov 30, 2016 12:46 am Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2016

Blazing the trail on Izta  Sucess!

The three of us hiked from the La Joyita and were lucky to have the hut to ourselves (standard route). The lights from Mexico City through the windows of the hut were a fantastic treat as we anxiously set for the night.

Alpine start at 3am and we slowly, but surely made it to the top of Izta after the sunrise and were the only one to summit that day. Izta saw an unusual amount of snow this year, so we found ourselves blazing the trail through the somewhat deep snow passed the false summits. And at 17,000+, boy, does it make a difference. Even flat areas took some effort to leave behind.

Was cold during the night and we were melting under the strong sun on the glacier on the way back all the way to the La Joyita.

Was this worth it? Every step, every heavy breath, every cold finger. Must climb for all!

Summit Equipment: crampons, ice axe, helmet, head lamp, 2L of water, one trekking pole.

gordonye

gordonye - Nov 29, 2016 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2016

La Arista del Sol  Sucess!

Climbed to the first of the three peaks on the Crater rim. A long route with huge elevation gain (over 6000 feet), but absolutely stupendous views of glaciers, jagged spires, and a steam-belching Popocatepetl volcano a few miles away.

xDoogiex

xDoogiex - Nov 3, 2016 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2016

Summited Las Rodillas

Summited he first sub summit Las Rodillas to acclimatize for Orizaba

seancau

seancau - Sep 2, 2016 5:40 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2015

The Sleeping Lady  Sucess!

Nice climb & much cheaper to do than Orizaba, no 4x4 ride needed. Again got lucky with the weather - beautiful clear summit. Crampons weren't necessary on the glacier.

seano

seano - Jan 1, 2016 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Dec 26, 2015

Standard route  Sucess!

Up the standard route in about 4 hours on a calm, sunny day. There was absolutely no snow, and the glacier is low-angle enough to cross in shoes or microspikes; the hard-packed dirt is trickier. A fun, moderate day with great views. Trip report.

wkatm

wkatm - Nov 13, 2015 5:30 pm Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2015

AMS on the Arista...

Made it past the second rodilla, to the glacier, before being overcome by the effects of altitude that had been steadily worsening since the night prior. It was my first time over 15K feet, and I maybe should have taken more time to acclimatize. Decided I didn't want to vomit my way to the summit, and still basically vomited my entire way down. No regrets... hard lesson learned, and the view was still extraordinary.

MadGrad96

MadGrad96 - Oct 9, 2015 8:19 am

Fun stuff!   Sucess!

Glad I made time for this one. Gorgeous area!

Eleutheros

Eleutheros - Mar 26, 2015 1:59 pm Date Climbed: Mar 21, 2015

Sunrise On the Summit  Sucess!

A perfect day with bright stars, dramatic high clouds, sunshine and Popo emitting large clouds of smoke. I had the entire summit(s) to myself at sunrise, and made coffee from the rime ice on the crosses. What an unforgettable moment. The air was clearer than I've ever seen in Mexico.

shknbke

shknbke - Jan 4, 2015 11:02 pm Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2014

La Arista del Sol  Sucess!

A storm about a week prior to the climb left snow on the mountain to all the way below the La Joya TH. We had to pack in the last couple miles. The snow was very firm in the morning. Crampons and ice axe were mandatory once on the ridge traverses, but the snow softened up by early afternoon. 10.5 hours round trip.

Renews - Jan 1, 2015 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Dec 3, 1982

Normal Route - Ixta  Sucess!

Finished Thanksgiving (turkey tacos) rafting trip on Moctezuma River at Tamazunchale and headed for volcanoes. Camped somewhere around 14K. Got up during night too early (read watch wrong), hid my camp gear, and started walk up. Realized it was too early when I got to high hut with no sign of light. Proceeded to stomp around in hut for several hours with a bivy sac over my head to keep warm. Wondered what anyone would have thought had they walked into the hut and seen me doing that routine. Got going again with first light. No problems other than splitting headache which was abetted by my inadequate water supply. Stuck it out through false summits. Nice and clear on top.

Monster5

Monster5 - Nov 9, 2014 6:29 pm Date Climbed: Nov 22, 2012

summit  Sucess!

Thanksgiving climb (date might be off). Trail runner conditions.

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