J-Crack, 5.9, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Two of the more popular moderate routes at Lumpy Ridge are J-Crack, 5.9, and Fat City Crack.  J-Crack essentially has one long stellar pitch (the finger crack to 5.11 seam variation for one very long pitch).  MP.com has this route at 5.9+, but I never felt the “+” portion.  I did climb the 5.11 variation finish to the long 5.9 finger crack and that is full on for the grade, but short.  The first pitch is basically an access pitch to the great finger crack and the last pitch is a fairly mundane 5.7 pitch unless you finish on Outlander’s cool final pitch.  MP.com formerly lists that Outlander pitch as 5.10+, but it is a 5.9 pitch by most standards.

Hike from the trail head as you would for the Book (all signed-2018, this is over populated CO remember).  As you start to head up the hill following the signs for the book, catch a sign for a split off trail to the right which is well marked for the Book.  If you stay on the trail straight you will end up at the Bookmark.  Once you get to the base of the Book's south wall where the trail dumps you, veer up and right and look for an easy climbing ramp, left to right, that ends at a belay ledge.  You will traverse back left, across a right facing corner, from that belay ledge to access the start of the obvious and tall finger crack (2nd pitch). 

Route Description

1st Pitch- 90’-5.7/ Climb the run out but easy face to a wide crack and continue up a right leaning ramp to a belay ledge on top.

2nd/3rd Pitches- 220’-5.9 (5.11 optional finish or C1)/ What makes this pitch so special is the length of the finger splitter, therefore I advise a 70m rope to get the full value.  Traverse up and left off the ledge and place a C4#2 and of course extend it.  Then step down and traverse straight left to the perfect finger crack.  Its lack of steepness is why most of it is just 5.8.  But the consistent nature of the pro, finger and hand jams is what makes it unique.  Climb the finger crack, placing all the small gear you want (C4 #.75 on down) until it does steepen to dead vertical at top.  This short section is full on 5.11 but can easily be aided through (C1) if you do not want to try and lead it.  Climb this last 30’ to a narrow ledge. Step left and belay off of a C4#3 plus a medium piece. 

4th Pitch- 160’-5.7 (5.9 optional finish)/ Climb the left facing corner and continue up easy ground trending right.  You come to a short wall on your right in an alcove.  Traverse it from left to right with some fun and airy, but still 5.7, climbing that takes you up to a tree belay.  The best finish is straight up the final pitch of Outlander (5.9):  instead of that final face traverse left to right, head straight up through the short chimney.  Face right and stem and chimney up to the hand crack pull.  Just a few more meters to the top of the formation from there.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Walk down a gully to skiers left and return to base.

Essential Gear

70m rope to make the good pitch one long lead.  Single to C4#3.  Double from micro cams to C4#.75.  Include some offset cams and/or wires so you have triple in sizes from .2 to .5 to allow most anyone to feel comfortable leading the long crux pitch as I have outlined at 200’+.  This route is south facing for the most part and receives its share amount of sun.