James Peak & St. Mary's Glacier Climber's Log

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1mvertical

1mvertical - May 29, 2006 12:32 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2006

Summer Skiing  Sucess!

Not sure if this counts as a summer ascent yet, but it sure felt like one. Wonderful snow conditions from the top at about 10:45am.
A couple of traverses required to keep from taking the skis off.

NanitaD

NanitaD - Apr 7, 2006 1:10 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2001

Climb St. Mary's Glacier  Sucess!

We snowshoed up and glissaded down. Beautiful summit - beautiful day.

Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Apr 6, 2006 1:33 am Date Climbed: May 2, 1971

St, Marys Glacier  Sucess!

Total ascents = 8. One of my favorite early season hikes.

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Jan 9, 2006 12:28 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes-Anchor Gulch Date Climbed: January 7, 2006  Sucess!

Skied ~400 feet from the summit.

Asphazell

Asphazell - Dec 5, 2005 1:38 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes - St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: November 19th, 2005  Sucess!

CMC outing with some friends. Fierce winds all day, blowing snow, ice, and pebbles. Reached the summit but couldn't see anything. Ahh, the joys of winter mountaineering! Apparrently, the wind in this area of the Continental Divide rarely ceases. Great workout!

iceisnice

iceisnice - Oct 4, 2005 12:49 am

Route Climbed: Shooting Star and Super Star Couloirs Date Climbed: Spring '03  Sucess!

Both couloirs are pretty simple. Kinda boring slogs actually.

DudeThatMustHurt

DudeThatMustHurt - Oct 1, 2005 5:57 pm

Route Climbed: varried Date Climbed: 4 times in Feb, 05  Sucess!

Spent a good deal of time here in jan and Feb of 05, many fun trips

Scott Wisher

Scott Wisher - Sep 25, 2005 10:35 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes Date Climbed: September 24, 2005  Sucess!

Good, easy, late season hike to the top of a Front Range Mountain, the highest point in Gilpin County. Good views of Winter Park, Evans , Torreys, Grays, Pikes, and Longs. Still some boarders on the rails of the glacier getting ready for this season.



To see more pictures than what I've posted on summitpost, click here.



Larry V

Larry V - Sep 21, 2005 11:49 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: 17 September 2005  Sucess!

Starting from Rogers Pass Trailhead. Climbed James Peak twice this day - before and after the peaks to the south. On the way down I met a man who is hiking the Continental Divide (starting June 8 in Canada). He was almost out of water, having not found the last two springs he was looking for. I hadn't seen a water source all day long, so he started down the trail with me until we found a small spring just above timberline. It really made him happy to see water running!!

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Sep 14, 2005 1:39 am

Route Climbed: north ridge Date Climbed: summer 1992  Sucess!

Climbed this one with a friend and got caught in a nasty storm just after summiting. Compass?



I thought you brought one!

Dude, I thought YOU brought one!



Ended up descending the completely wrong side of the mountain and having to get a ride back to the car the next day... what idiots.

shansen

shansen - Aug 8, 2005 11:08 pm

Route Climbed: Sky Pilot Date Climbed: August 06, 2005  Sucess!

We did sky pilot today, there was some fun snow in the basin below the east face, and up into the first turn up into sky pilot (left). two more sections of snow and two nasty rotted rock sections and we gained the summit ridge.

rockcairn

rockcairn - Jul 14, 2005 7:48 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes (James Peak Lake TH) Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

From FDR353 out of Tolland or Apex there is still a snow field leaving you about a mile short of the James Peak Lake TH. Some vehicles where driving around road closed signs to avoid the main road and reach the TH. (whats wrong with a little more exercise?Just hike it).

Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Jul 5, 2005 10:39 am

Route Climbed: Starlight Couloir Date Climbed: 7/3/05

Route climbed with Tim Stich. The couloir does not appear to be as steep as Shooting Star but its hard to tell until you're right on it. Tim and I simuclimbed the route. I placed 1 picket during the climb but really, that wasn't even necessary. For the most part, we soloed it. Steeper sections were encountered towards the top with hard/icey snow. Topped out on the route and snow started falling. After descending another 600', the sun was shining and we were taking off the layers. Gotta love the diversity of Colorado weather!!!

RMdaytripsgrl

RMdaytripsgrl - Jun 23, 2005 4:44 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes - St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: June 14, 2005  Sucess!

A great route, not difficult, but make sure you set out early enough to have firm snow...otherwise, this could be a LONG day.

Set out at 6am, gained summit at 8:30, back to car by 10am thanks to a lot of glissading. Crampons unnecessary, snowshoes used on glacier and on East slope/summit ridge, heel risers VERY handy. Flats were mostly thawed out and soggy.

umbra alta

umbra alta - Jun 22, 2005 3:29 pm

Route Climbed: Shootingstar Couloir Date Climbed: May 2004  Sucess!

Snow was a little unconsolidated on this early climb. Start this climb very early to avoid the early sunhit. We were late and took some falling debris about halfway up. Sprinted up after that. Sustained 50 to 60 degree snow with an even steeper crux.

bwilmhof - Jun 20, 2005 10:37 am

Route Climbed: St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: June 18, 2005  Sucess!

Very nice day, beautiful route! Schlepped straight up the glacier, across the 4wd roads to the NE side of the moutain, straight up from there. Still a lot of snow, which made the descent a BREEZE! No gear needed but good boots and maybe gators.

virginiapine

virginiapine - Jun 14, 2005 11:26 am

Route Climbed: Superstar Couloir on the E. Face Date Climbed: July, 2002  Sucess!

Spent a good full day on the St. Mary's Glacier teaching a few friends use of crampons, ice axe, arresting a fall on snow, and roped glacier travel. Then we headed across the tundra and down to James Pk. Lake for the night - a very beautiful spot. The next morning we headed up and climbed 'Superstar Couloir' on the E. Face (see Paul's route page for the report - I'm the Michael referred to in the report). Excellent first technical alpine climb for my friends - a bit of steep snow, a bit of rock climbing, and not a long route so we could take our time to talk everything out (when needed).

edlins

edlins - May 24, 2005 11:56 am

Route Climbed: southeast slopes Date Climbed: May 22, 2005  Sucess!

Started from St Mary's Lake at 7am, summited at 10am, back to the lake by noon. The glacier was firm in the morning, the flats near "Jamaica" were half snow covered, and the upper slopes were snowy buy softening up by 9am. I was glad to have snowshoes on the flats on the way down. No crampons necessary. There is still a big cornice on superstar couloir.

mr_g

mr_g - May 22, 2005 12:22 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes Date Climbed: May 21, 2005  Sucess!

Nice hike, although the winds were pretty constant most of the trip up. The snow was solid on the way up, but softened on the way down. All in all it was a good trip with alot of nice views of the surrounding areas. The weather was beautiful - not too hot or cold!

coloradoiceclimber

coloradoiceclimber - Apr 2, 2005 2:00 pm

Route Climbed: East Slopes Date Climbed: April 2, 2005  Sucess!

Amazing conditions to ski James Peak via St Mary's Glacier, especially compared to an attempt in February this year (out of control winds!). The dogs and I had a blast and we were back to the truck in little over (4) hours!

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