Japanese Route Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 30, 2009 12:08 pm

Re: Japanese Route

hey Anita, finally got them organized under "trip reports"...hope all is well, been a great summer season here, best ever just about for me...wet June, good July, early wet Aug followed by about the best climbing weather I have ever seen here....getting out every day right now...getting tired! Cheers

anita

anita - Aug 4, 2009 4:06 pm

Re: Japanese Route

awesome! can't wait to see some pictures

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 4, 2009 3:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009

Japanese Route  Sucess!

Jason Wilcox and I were the first to stand on the summit of Mount Alberta, 2009. We stole a day of weather. Went in to the hut, 5.5 hrs....started to rain and hail, bailed on our bivy idea and stayed dry in the hut. Meant a big next day, 20hr hut to hut. Ridge was mostly dry, we never used crampons. The climb is quite ugly and both of us thought there was no way this should be considered a classic climb in anyone's book, much less the coveted one. Felt our start to the right of the window arch was more direct and a better option, but we pulled our pitons. None of it is memorable climbing. The best way to rap is to simul and pay the rope out as you go, no question about it. I never ascended and descended so much choss. My altimeter reported accumulated elevation at 12,350!!! You lose and have to regain a ton. Another interesting tid bit, our descent was as long as our ascent, 10 hrs each way. There is just that much loose rock, etc. Beautiful location though, I will give Mount Alberta its worth there.

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