|Route Type:||Mountaineering, Ice Climbing|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter|
|Time Required:||Half a day|
|Rock Difficulty:||5.3 (YDS)|
The main couloir is leading to Javorová štrbina Pass. In fact, there are two parallel couloirs, the left one deeper and marking our route of ascent. Overall difficulty depends on the snow condition. If there is a poor snow covering, you will have mixed pitches (rock and ice) here, on the other hand, especially after heavy snow falls, beware of the avalanches falling from huge summit plateau. We've encountered a very good, almost Spring-like, conditions, with a hard snow and only few sections which included rock and ice climbing. In the first section of the couloir there are two small rock steps.
After crossing the second one, there is a short traverse to the left into the easier part of this ascent.
The couloir here is wider and there are no other obstacles.
Once being in Javorová štrbina you have to cross the summit plateau (similar to the one on Baranie rohy) and then you can easily reach the main, SE, summit of Javorový štít. The panorama view from the summit is overwhelming and you can see all the main Tatra peaks in full view. However the most formidable view is directly beneath your feet, into the north aspects of Javorový múr (400 m high wall with some serious winter routes).
We choosed eastern couloir for the descent, because it's the easiest route down (35-45°). The starting point is a saddle between Pravá veža and Javorový štít. You can easily descent from here to Ostrý kotol, and to the yellow marked trail leading from Priečne sedlo to Zbojnická chata.