This is a fun and challenging climb with some pretty sketchy rock. We decided to belay the first pitch then crawled through an opening and over to another small opening that led into a tight chimney climb. From there it was a short scramble to the summit.
Louie Climbs - Oct 11, 2021 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2021
This Is Loose as You're Going to Get
I've read or heard this route is everything from class IV to 5.5. Having climbed it with a group of nine people, I think a lot of subjectivity is required here.
It's not class IV. This is a 5.0 route. The reason I say this is to deter people from not using a rope on this short pitch. Why?
The rock is atrocious. Hand holds and foot holds that appear to be solid on test regularly blow out.
Any fall on this dike would be like getting shot through a meat grinder. Belayers regularly get spit on by smallish and even bigger pieces of Jeff Davis.
Don't underestimate how hazardous this climb is. The moves are easy and the pitch is short. But hazardous rock is everywhere. Use a rope and look out for everything.
trexkerry - Oct 30, 2016 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2016
Group hike
Led by Daryn Dodge with help from David Sanger, our group (Andrew Kirmse, Jerry Kohn, Laura Newman, Bob McLaughlin) were able to all summit. See Peakbagger page for TR's and tracks, if desired.
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
Along with Markeeville
Meetup hike.
Nice loop.
Class 4 pitch was fun.
mengbo - Nov 16, 2014 12:43 am Date Climbed: Nov 15, 2014
2x. Discovered the tunnel on the descent after making the spicy traverse from the rap anchor. Good fun with dad.
WayneFry - Jun 7, 2011 12:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Cool looking peak
Climbed with the NorCal peak hikers. A few in the group summited but most chose not to risk a 4th class climb without helmets. Still need to come back and nail this one.
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2009
Started around the corner from the standard route, went up some very loose 4th class, through a tunnel, and made a short traverse to the rap station. Broke a foot hold at one point and about ripped my arm out of the socket catching the fall. The chimney was great fun. Rapped down the standard route. Looked a lot easier and significantly more solid than my route.
Franky - Jun 7, 2009 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
Fun!
Fun stuff, I guess I can't really tell the difference between 4th class and low fifth. I trundled a bunch of loose stuff off the main route since I was soloing, seems I was the first to climb it since winter. The chimney portion is pretty solid rock, not scary at all, just really fun. Downclimbing seemed like a safer alternative to the rap, loose rock being the main concern and all.
Couldn't see a thing from the summit, I hiked from the third gate up markleeville peak and over to jeff davis, snowed/sleeted/rained the entire time.
All in all, a cool peak that doesn't see a lot of action. I think the volcanic peaks between carson and ebbets are my favorite peaks in the Northern Sierra Region.
biz - Sep 22, 2008 2:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
Thanksgiving fun
Nice easy little peak. Summitted just before dark and saw the sunset. It was quite cold and windy, but a fantastic view. Accidentally left a bunch of slings sitting near the belay rock. Bummer.
Adamus - Aug 26, 2007 5:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
South Side
Fun climbing. Definitely airy. Holds weren't quite as loose as they looked. The chimney was cool. Together with Markleeville Peak.
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2006
Climbed The Nipple, Jeff Davis, and Markleeville on an ambitious and surprisingly successful snowshoe outing out of Red Lake with Bob. Glad we brought a short rope to rappel. Ours was the first winter ascent recorded in the register, which dated back to 1985. Cool peak.
WayneFry - Sep 8, 2023 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2023
Still a cool looking peakThis is a fun and challenging climb with some pretty sketchy rock. We decided to belay the first pitch then crawled through an opening and over to another small opening that led into a tight chimney climb. From there it was a short scramble to the summit.
Louie Climbs - Oct 11, 2021 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2021
This Is Loose as You're Going to GetI've read or heard this route is everything from class IV to 5.5. Having climbed it with a group of nine people, I think a lot of subjectivity is required here.
It's not class IV. This is a 5.0 route. The reason I say this is to deter people from not using a rope on this short pitch. Why?
The rock is atrocious. Hand holds and foot holds that appear to be solid on test regularly blow out.
Any fall on this dike would be like getting shot through a meat grinder. Belayers regularly get spit on by smallish and even bigger pieces of Jeff Davis.
Don't underestimate how hazardous this climb is. The moves are easy and the pitch is short. But hazardous rock is everywhere. Use a rope and look out for everything.
trexkerry - Oct 30, 2016 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2016
Group hikeLed by Daryn Dodge with help from David Sanger, our group (Andrew Kirmse, Jerry Kohn, Laura Newman, Bob McLaughlin) were able to all summit. See Peakbagger page for TR's and tracks, if desired.
Fairweather - Oct 18, 2015 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
Along with MarkeevilleMeetup hike.
Nice loop.
Class 4 pitch was fun.
mengbo - Nov 16, 2014 12:43 am Date Climbed: Nov 15, 2014
south faceday hike with Jean and Sandra. 2 pitches.
BCL - Jul 4, 2011 12:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
South Face2x. Discovered the tunnel on the descent after making the spicy traverse from the rap anchor. Good fun with dad.
WayneFry - Jun 7, 2011 12:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
Cool looking peakClimbed with the NorCal peak hikers. A few in the group summited but most chose not to risk a 4th class climb without helmets. Still need to come back and nail this one.
BCL - Jul 4, 2009 6:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2009Started around the corner from the standard route, went up some very loose 4th class, through a tunnel, and made a short traverse to the rap station. Broke a foot hold at one point and about ripped my arm out of the socket catching the fall. The chimney was great fun. Rapped down the standard route. Looked a lot easier and significantly more solid than my route.
Franky - Jun 7, 2009 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
Fun!Fun stuff, I guess I can't really tell the difference between 4th class and low fifth. I trundled a bunch of loose stuff off the main route since I was soloing, seems I was the first to climb it since winter. The chimney portion is pretty solid rock, not scary at all, just really fun. Downclimbing seemed like a safer alternative to the rap, loose rock being the main concern and all.
Couldn't see a thing from the summit, I hiked from the third gate up markleeville peak and over to jeff davis, snowed/sleeted/rained the entire time.
All in all, a cool peak that doesn't see a lot of action. I think the volcanic peaks between carson and ebbets are my favorite peaks in the Northern Sierra Region.
biz - Sep 22, 2008 2:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
Thanksgiving funNice easy little peak. Summitted just before dark and saw the sunset. It was quite cold and windy, but a fantastic view. Accidentally left a bunch of slings sitting near the belay rock. Bummer.
Adamus - Aug 26, 2007 5:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
South SideFun climbing. Definitely airy. Holds weren't quite as loose as they looked. The chimney was cool. Together with Markleeville Peak.
Bob Burd - Jan 27, 2006 1:52 am
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2006This was one of our better winter outings. Cold & windy, but highly enjoyable. Trip Report
Matthew Holliman - Jan 23, 2006 7:15 pm
Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2006Climbed The Nipple, Jeff Davis, and Markleeville on an ambitious and surprisingly successful snowshoe outing out of Red Lake with Bob. Glad we brought a short rope to rappel. Ours was the first winter ascent recorded in the register, which dated back to 1985. Cool peak.