Some of the greatest concentration of excellent climbs are on the formations within the Lost Horse Area of Joshua Tree. Hemingway Buttress and Dairy Queen Wall are quite popular, including routes such as Overseer (5.9), White Lightning (5.7), and Frosty Cone (5.7).
Drive down the Lost Horse road to access the Rock Garden Valley, where you'll find a strenuous approach up boulder fields to the Freeway Wall (Cake Walk - 5.9), Tiny Tots Wall (Dinkey Doinks - 5.8), and the Shorter Wall with a number of excellent 7's, 8's, and 9's). Park further along the road to access the Lost Horse Wall, with several good multi-pitch climbs, the Atlantis Wall, and Mount Grosvogel -- both featuring several excellent, easier climbs.
You may want to skip climbing the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, however. Only 5.6, but you'll probably have to free-solo it (and downclimb). Aiguille translates to "needle" -- you'll understand the name when you see this unique formation.
Local JT photographer, climber and boulderer Robert Miramontes has published Joshua Tree Rock Climbs guidebook for Android & iOS devices that works at JT with no cell service. Robert's guidebook includes a car to crag navigation feature, enabled by his JT trail map to every crag that works beyond cell service. For this reason, Robert has also given this guidebook to the JT Search and Rescue team so that they can locate accident scenes more efficiently.
Would be nice to add a guide service section to this page, so anyone in need of a Joshua Tree rock climbing guide can find what they are looking for!
Aron Stockhausen www.Stone-Adventures.com
My name is Bruce Andre.Had a rock climbing class at Long Beach State in 1971,taught by Dave Davis. We put up a route in JT, naming it Andremeda Strain,not Andromeda Strain-in my honor. I saw it correctly listed in a JT Climbing guide years ago in Tucson, but now I see it as ANDROMEDA Strain. Would be nice to put out notice to all the guides to call the route by its given name, but dont know how to do that....no biggee, Im 70 now and sure cant climb my old JT haunts.
Thank you
Diggler - Nov 3, 2003 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentGood point- well worth adding for completeness!
gordonye - May 20, 2003 7:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentAccording to National park map: http://www.nps.gov/jotr/ppmaps/jotrmap%2Epdf
The high point of JTNP is:
Quail Mtn 5813 feet
lat: 34.007 N
long: 116.241 W
Diggler - Nov 3, 2003 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentGood point- well worth adding for completeness!
WingLady - Nov 18, 2004 11:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentSome of the greatest concentration of excellent climbs are on the formations within the Lost Horse Area of Joshua Tree. Hemingway Buttress and Dairy Queen Wall are quite popular, including routes such as Overseer (5.9), White Lightning (5.7), and Frosty Cone (5.7).
Drive down the Lost Horse road to access the Rock Garden Valley, where you'll find a strenuous approach up boulder fields to the Freeway Wall (Cake Walk - 5.9), Tiny Tots Wall (Dinkey Doinks - 5.8), and the Shorter Wall with a number of excellent 7's, 8's, and 9's). Park further along the road to access the Lost Horse Wall, with several good multi-pitch climbs, the Atlantis Wall, and Mount Grosvogel -- both featuring several excellent, easier climbs.
You may want to skip climbing the Aiguille de Joshua Tree, however. Only 5.6, but you'll probably have to free-solo it (and downclimb). Aiguille translates to "needle" -- you'll understand the name when you see this unique formation.
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D. Winger
http://www.JoshuaTreeTrad.com
toddkutzke - Mar 3, 2015 9:35 am - Hasn't voted
New Joshua Tree Rock Climbs GuidebookLocal JT photographer, climber and boulderer Robert Miramontes has published Joshua Tree Rock Climbs guidebook for Android & iOS devices that works at JT with no cell service. Robert's guidebook includes a car to crag navigation feature, enabled by his JT trail map to every crag that works beyond cell service. For this reason, Robert has also given this guidebook to the JT Search and Rescue team so that they can locate accident scenes more efficiently.
Stone Adventures - Dec 13, 2015 1:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Stone AdventuresWould be nice to add a guide service section to this page, so anyone in need of a Joshua Tree rock climbing guide can find what they are looking for!
Aron Stockhausen
www.Stone-Adventures.com
caliche - Dec 28, 2016 8:35 pm - Hasn't voted
route namr correctionMy name is Bruce Andre.Had a rock climbing class at Long Beach State in 1971,taught by Dave Davis. We put up a route in JT, naming it Andremeda Strain,not Andromeda Strain-in my honor. I saw it correctly listed in a JT Climbing guide years ago in Tucson, but now I see it as ANDROMEDA Strain. Would be nice to put out notice to all the guides to call the route by its given name, but dont know how to do that....no biggee, Im 70 now and sure cant climb my old JT haunts.
Thank you