Got caught in a thunderstorm three times, hypothermic twice, hailed on twice... Not my initial idea of a good time, but now that I am safely back, I can say that I loved it.
See the full TR there: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/537732/Don-t-piss-off-the-water-gods-A-wet-epic-on-Jubil-umsgrat.html
Ropeway to Kreuzeckhaus. Next morning Alpspitze via Schöngänge and SE ridge, over to Jubiläum ridge to bivy hut. Clouds fell in that evening, but the morning brought the sun's splendor back again, with -16°C inside and -18°C outside the hut. Continued to Zugspitze bypassing several steep ridge sections using snow gullys on the S side of the ridge. Arrived at summit just 20 minutes before the last ropeway went down.
Would guess its better done in winter when loose gravel is snow-covered than in summer, and - I would never do it upside down, starting from the top (Zugspitze).
After 4 hours fighting with severe winter condition, we turn back just a short distance away from "Innere Hoellentalspitze" and reach the Zugspitze - summit at sunset.
This is really a great climb -- especially off-season when there is noone else there.
Climbed in winter 2004. Its a really great trip, a fantastic view and My opinion is that you can climb it better in winter than in the summer.
A long, warm and wonderful day over a wonderful, exposed ridge.
Total climbing time: 8 hours + 1 hour rest
perfect weather, warm and clear (views on Grossglockner, Marmolada, Piz Bernina) but for average climbers as me and Frank a very demanding day: 10 h walk, many exposed and non fixed scrambling. Often the red spots can hardly be seen any more so you have to look very carefully for the route.
A long but rewarding day.
We took the Alpspitzbahn to Osterfelderkopf(2050m), climbed the Alpspitze via the Eastridge, this route takes one hour longer compared to the Northridge but provides you with a breathtaking look down in the Grieskar.
Routefinding on the ridge was generally no problem. Only finding the start of the klettersteig to bypass Hochblassen took some time. Most technical part during the first day was the Vollkarspitze, but route is well secured. Had excellent weather the first day, sunny, no wind.
Second day started out sunny, but it started raining when we past the Innere Höllentalspitze, the most technical portion of the second day, this part is not secured all the time, and the rain made us decide to rope in. We took the Zugspitzbahn down to Eibsee (and payed 25 € each for it!?)
Average time between Alpspitze and Zugspitze is 10 hours, with the bivac hut at 4 hours from Alpspitze.
P.S. We left half a bottle of Schnapps behind in the hut, cheers to the first one to get there after us;-)
We did this as a 2 day trip with a small tent (see posted picture). First day ascent through the nice 'Hoellental' up to Zugspitze and approx. 2 hours into the 'Jubilaeumsgrat'. Had to carry lots of stuff (íncl. water since the ridge was absolutely dry that summer) but enjoyed a nice bivouc with cooking and wine on the ridge. Next day we continued quite relaxed into the route - but only until a 'jogger' with leggins and running shoes overtook us. I'll use the latter equipment next time ;-)
PS: repeated that in opposite direction (Osterfelder Kopf - Alpspitze - Zugspitze) on July 20th, 2005. Takes a bit longer than Zugspitze - Alpspitze since going more up than down. You need to hurry to catch the cable car on Zugspitze and also should use the first cable car to Osterfelderkopf in the morning. In order to be faster then 8 hours you should speed up.
PS: Looking for a partner to do it in winter - no running boots then...
Climbed with my friend Thomas (see below). Crux was climbing the Vollkarspitze.
A long day on a really exposed ridge of rock and snow.
Finally it took us 12 1/4 hours as we missed the last cable car back down.
We climbed only the eastern part. From Knorrhütte we climbed the ridge via Brunntalgrat and slept in the bivy shelter.
Next day we continued to the Alpspitze. UIAA I scramble and some parts secured with cables (esp. an exposed steep rock at the Vollkarspitze - this part changed due to recent rock fall).
Tough tour for one day, but very impressing! Very cold!
First Alpine trip I ever did with a group of other climbers while we were stationed nearby. We tented at the bivouac and had a really remarkable time one gets all the feeling of being high up witout alot of hard climbing.
Good trip for those who want to build some expriance in high places.