Junction Peak Climber's Log

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YEM

YEM - Aug 30, 2020 2:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2020

Forester Pass   Sucess!

After thunderstorms and smoke the days before, I enjoyed clear blue skies on Junction Peak. The route to Ski Mountaineer Pass was straightforward, but the imposing view of the west ridge looked very intimidating. The route would go up, then traverse half a dozen times until the final summit scramble. My final route up the summit block definitely gave me some pause. It was only a couple moves, but the exposure and commitment felt like the limit of class 3 to me. The aesthetics and view makes Junction one of my favorite Sierra summits I have climbed so far. Highly recommended!!

wmolland

wmolland - Aug 21, 2020 9:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2020

From Ski Mountaineers Pass  Sucess!

Significant rain the days before made going up some of the slabbier stuff towards the bottom of the main chute quite tricky. I found out on my return that this could be avoided by climbing farther up the first chute before traversing to the main chute.

Romain

Romain - Aug 1, 2020 1:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2020

From Forester Pass  Sucess!

Trip report

BobD3

BobD3 - Aug 5, 2017 7:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2017

Diamond Mesa/ South Ridge  Sucess!

Nice class 3 climb from the campsite near Shepherd Pass. Pretty solid rock overall, would certainly recommend this route. If you do go this way, please keep in mind the first summit in view is a false summit, just slightly lower, and is bypassed on the left. Also, it would be wise to GPS mark the entrance/exit off of Diamond Mesa. I didn't, and I paid the price by wandering too far right (north) on the exit.

Deb

Deb - Sep 1, 2016 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2016

West Face  Sucess!

Pk #6 on day 3 of bagging peaks over Shepherd Pass. Thoroughly enjoyed the scramble from Pk 13431 at the pass and up Junction's west face.

Fairweather

Fairweather - Oct 14, 2015 12:18 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014

Junction & Tyndall  Sucess!

After climbing Tyndall, we headed across the Shepherd Plateau and up onto Diamond Mesa from which we climbed the South Ridge.
Fun route and descent back to Anvil Camp with Todd.

cab

cab - Jun 29, 2015 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2015

South Face  Sucess!

After climbing Mt. Keith earlier in the day, we camped at Lake 3,806m. Climbed the South Face of Junction Peak in the morning. For the final traverse along the south ridge starting at the top of the south face, we initially dropped down on the left side of the ridge, then climbed a chute back up to the ridge which put us about 1/4 of the way to the summit. From there, we stayed directly on the ridge to the summit.

mrchad9

mrchad9 - Jul 22, 2013 6:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2013

Forester Pass  Sucess!

Took the ridge and west chute up from Forester Pass during a weekend in Center Basin. Goes over one of my favorite stretches of the JMT, loved the walk through there. Fun climbing up slabs in the chute with a bit of poking around to find the best route to the summit at the top. View is superb!

seano

seano - Aug 20, 2012 10:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2012

From Diamond Mesa  Sucess!

Day 10 of the Sierra Challenge. Life is easier if you stay below the ridge to the left. Trip report.

Guilty

Guilty - Jul 21, 2010 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2010

SW slope  Sucess!

Decide to do this from the John Muir Trail. Last minute thing, but a fun-route finding peak.

Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Sep 2, 2009 4:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009

from Forester Pass  Sucess!

Tagged this peak along with Caltech. Fun class 3 scrambling from Forester Pass.

MarieP

MarieP - Aug 11, 2009 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

From Forester Pass  Sucess!

Part of 3-day backpacking trip

JGHarrison

JGHarrison - Jan 26, 2009 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2008

Unknown route  Sucess!

I had no route descriptions, so unsure as to the title of my route. I went straight up Diamond Mesa, across the mesa, across a knife ridge, and up a steep loose coluir. I do not recommend going up the colouir as it was extremely loose. Great fun though

Sam Roberts

Sam Roberts - Jul 31, 2008 6:45 pm

South Ridge  Sucess!

Nice climb.

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Jul 25, 2008 2:20 am Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2008

South Face (ascent); East Chute (descent)  Sucess!

Trip Report

bechtt

bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007

From Forester Pass  Sucess!

Quick 2 hour roundtrip from the pass with a bit of hail on top. Views were phenomenal. Peak #14 on JMT adventure.

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Jul 11, 2007 1:31 am Date Climbed: May 11, 2007

South Face  Sucess!

Spectacular summit ridge--it's just a shame it requires a slog up Shepherd Pass and up endless sand on the south face to reach it.

The ridge looked intimidating on the climb up, and based on a hazy recollection of Secor's advice, I dropped off the ridge to the west side, which proved to be tricky in places (difficult route-finding, some delicate moves). On the return, I kept religiously to the crest of the ridge, and found it *much* easier, although a couple of moves still seemed more like 4th class than 3rd.

No sleep and no acclimatization beforehand made this a much tougher outing than I was anticipating. Mt. Keith will have to wait for another time.

atavist

atavist - Jun 22, 2007 10:46 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2005

from the east side  Sucess!

Hiked in from Roads End TH. Tried to make it to Tyndall but after crossing Forester pass decided to bag Junction instead to save some time.

tpdwr

tpdwr - Sep 27, 2005 7:26 pm

Route Climbed: South ridge, Diamond Mesa Date Climbed: August 24, 1982  Sucess!

Camped at south end of Diamond Mesa. Great climb. A little cloudy on top.

Michael Graupe

Michael Graupe - Sep 21, 2005 12:23 pm

Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!

Last day of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Beautiful summit with huge exposure on the summit ridge.

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