Just What the Medicine Man Ordered

Page Type
Arizona, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Most of a day
Lots of scrambling and 4th class, with some great 5th class climbing mixed in!
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Mar 21, 2006
Last Edited On: Dec 2, 2010

Just What the Medicine Man Ordered, 5.9+ R/X

In December 2005, Seth and I decided to go at Elephant Heads West Gully Mountaineering route. I felt Seth should have the lead since it was his first time in the Gully. This kept the climbing new and took us in to some uncharted - unclimbed territory! Pending a detailed description from Seth, it will suffice to say that we ventured out of the traditional Gully to the RIGHT, and wound up climbing some excellent faces. (Unprotected strenuous 5.9 on in a couple spots, so Seth gets the medal for rope-gun bravery!) Our favorite pitch we refer to as "The Prescription Pitch" which goes at 5.9+ R/X. After difficult to protect, but FUN 5.8+ climbing, slabby commiting face moves at the top with poor protection below make the exit moves something you'll probbably only want to do once. We waypointed belays at several pitches, and if I can ever find them on my computer I'll be posting those with some pictures of the route... We didn't take many, but it will always be a vivid adventure remembered in our minds' eye!

Getting There

See the Elephant Head section on Getting There. (Standard West Gully Approach)

Route Description

Way points and a detailed description from the leader coming soon.

Essential Gear

A standard rack and lots of water.

Just What the Medicine Man Ordered

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