Heli into Rearguard Meadows is the way to go, avoid the long slog from the road, around the lake. On the 7th we ascended from Rearguard Meadow camp (about 7,000 feet), up the glacier through the the Mousetrap icefall and camped on the Dome at 10,000. On the 8th, we summitted via the Kain face (up at 0200, climbing @ 0300) and a 14 hour day. The two days back to back were pretty grueling.
Poor weather prevented an ascent of the North or Kain Faces and pinned us in on The Dome at 10,250' for three straight days before a break in the weather allowed us to leave.
Unsuccessful attempt March 1982. Strenuous ski ascent from road head to Berg Lake with full packs, overnite. Day 2 up Robson Glacier to bivi in the icefall (due to bad weather). Day 3 to snowcave underneath Kain Face. Day 4 wait on weather (low visibility / heavy snow). Day 5 unsuccessful attempt, climbed the Kain Face but retreated while on the summit ridge due to whiteout conditions. Day 6 long ski to road in one day, missed huge 'no hope' avalanche in the upper Robson Glacier by one hour. Ice blocks the size of railway cars thrown two miles down the glacier. Great trip, too bad the weather was poor, had maybe one or two clear glimpses of the summit all week.