Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b
Created On: Feb 2, 2012
Last Edited On: Dec 1, 2017

Overview/Approach

 
Chicken Mechanics, 5.9
Chicken Mechanics, 5.9

Ken Black Memorial Dome was named after Kenny Black (aka psycho Kenny), a climber who was killed in an accident in the Garden of Gods, Colorado. Ken Black was a Jtree mainstay from the ‘80’s.
 
Descent
 
 
This feature is really not shaped much like a dome but does have a small flat summit that offers up the best views of the private ranch across the park road. Ken Black Dome features a northeast side (am sun) and west side (pm sun). What attracted me to the dome was a double star crack route in Miramontes book, Chicken Mechanics (5.9), which I used as an early morning warm up for the longer routes located down Lost Horse Road. A starred 5.8 to the left of Chicken Mechanics did not look very inviting. It did not appear sustained nor interesting in any way and I chose to ignore it. Another route of special note on this sunny side is Blackjack (5.11a), a mixed route that Miramontes gives a full page photo of on page 91. There does not seem to be much else going on regarding the Ken Black Memorial Dome.

Turn south down the Lost Horse Road and immediately park at the paved trail head on the left. For the northeast routes, follow a trail east around the feature. Chicken Mechanics and Blackjack hosted directional signs in 2012.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the NE Wall

  • Powdered Toast Man- 5.10b/

  • Fryer Flyers- 5.5/

  • Poultry Pilots- 5.7/

  • Chicken Mechanics- 5.9/** A technical 5.9 even by Jtree standards.  Off the deck requires a strict sequence with delicate pro (brassie or small not).  At the roof is a physical layback up and over, committing for the grade.  After that it is crusier, but still fun, to an obvious gear belay in a medium sized crack.  Finish on a short 3 bolt route named Pacific Ave. Dorm to the top of the formation. Dow

  • My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom- 5.8/* Miramontes guide gives this route a star but it does not deserve it.  Contrived short route that meanders up the left side of the formation after you ascend half way up a gully.  Just to the left of the popular Chicken Mechanics.  Once on the short NE facing wall, you traverse right to left through two bolts. Dow

  • Pacific Ave Doom- 5.7/*  An uneventful three bolt route that leads to the top of the formation from the top of Chicken Mechanics.  You can easily scramble back down this formation to the base to the east, skiers right. Dow

  • Pacific Heights- 5.8/

  • Holiday in the Sun- 5.10aR/*

  • Blackjack- 5.11a/**

  • Black Magic- 5.10b/

  • Blackout- 5.11a/

  • Blackheart- 5.10d/

  • Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall

  • White Punks on Dope- 5.10a/*

  • Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload- 5.11dR/**

  • Anti-Gravity Boots- 5.11cR/**

  • Gomma Cocida- 5.10dR/**

  • Potato Masher- 5.12bR/*

  • The Nose in a Day- 5.9/

  • Salathe’ Free- 5.6/