Season's first on the summit. A perfect day, nobody else above 6300m. Made the tracks and found the ropes. Totally my style! Second 7000er in a week.
Beautiful mountain. Climbed the West Ridge, but opted to turn around @6850 meters. Will have to go back and finish the route one day...
Acclimatized on Lenin and planning to blast up the mountain in a week. Carried 10 days of food/fuel in preparation for bad weather which this mountain is known for. And as an old mountain adage, if you carry extra food/fuel, you'll use it. And so we did because out of those 10 days, there were only a couple of days of good weather in which we can move. Approached from the south side so moving between camps after snow was out of the question due to avalanche danger. Spent 3 days at each camp. Made the summit attempt on day 9 but was turned around at 6,400m due to horrendous winds and extreme cold. Should have brought my down suit.
Summited in august 2008 solo and august 2010 with client. Verygood weather, sunny, not wind, not snow. Beautiful mountain and good route.
via Progrebetsky Route (Classical Southern Route). The most beautiful peak, keeps drawing your eyes to it. The 5.7/ 5.8 rock section at ~ 6900 meters is on marble making it very secure to solo and incredible climbing that may be unique (what other peaks have marble this high?).
Summit with Anders Ödman. Normal route from south (hazardous --> serac fall/avalanches from Pik Chapaev!), no fixed rope used for ascent, acclimatization for other climbs in area.
Old fix rope broke. Almost fall to death. Very happy to summit.
Did all the program in two weeks and been the last climbers from the North in the season. Quite hard route, but fixed ropes are everywhere, normally in very doubtful conditions. The Mountain is unbelievably beautiful (if visible). Started from the Camp III 6100 at 7.30 and been on the summit a bit
past midday and at 15.30 back in the Camp. Snow storm all the way, no summit views at all.
Crap climbing conditions on the west ridge. After ascending deep powder snow and literally going nowhere at times we had to turn back at about 6850m late in the afternoon because of bad weather. We descended under nightfall. I had crampon problems and so descended slower than my partners on the fixed lines. Around midnight, amidst poor visibilty, I opted to halt on the ridge until the morning after losing the route. The night was freezing and by the morning my right hand was badly frostbitten and I had also lost sensation in my toes. Fortunately the weather and visibility improved around sunrise and I quickly found the route again and made it back to the col around 5am. We were hit by an avalanche off Chapayeva a few days earlier and the helicopter that was supposed to be flying us back to Kakara after the climb crashed (later making news around the world)! An eventful trip!
If I go back I'll either try the north side or the south side along with Pobeda. Not sure I want to take that avalanche prone classic southern route again though.
This is a very beautiful mountain that you realy need to see. In the summit day I have been angry because I think that 20 climbers in the same day on the route to the peak are to much. I have to wait more than 1 hour at 6700m to pass a 20m rock barrier. But once I have seen the view from the top I have forgetten all this problems.
Great climb (as it is my only one)