is a climb in a spectacular location below the Mt Kidd bowl in Kananaskis. It is threatened by a big avalanche bowl and there have been numerous avalanche incidents on it, so check the conditions and use common sense.
The climb and Mt Kidd.
The climb is visible from the highway, and is accessed from the Galatea parking lot. The location is beautiful and the views from it amazing. That, and the fact that it is in the sun, make it an appealing climb.
Get to Highway 40 (Kananskis) and drive south from the Trans-Canada. Stop at the "Galatea" pull-out, which is 21.5 km past the Barrier Lake visitor centre. This is a big parking lot at a popular trailhead in the summer, but in the winter it is gated, and only the entrance plowed, with room for about 5-6 cars.
From the parking lot, follow the hiking trail down a hill, and past big suspension bridge. After another small bridge is passed (5-10 minutes), you will reach a sign, and a junction - take a right (now you'll be walking parallel to the highway). After about 700-1000m, you'll reach an opening on your left - head up finding the easiest way, and after a while aim to the right toward the base of the route, which will be in view. About 1-2 hours depending on snow conditions.
Hiking up through avalanche debris
The route looks big from the highway, but in fact is only 60 meters. Due to the lack of good ice at the top for an anchor, it is preferrable to climb the route in 2 pitches (otherwise about 20 meters of simul-climbing will be needed to reach a belay from a slung boulder, not recommended). There is also a two-bolt belay on the left below the top that can be utilized depending on how the ice has formed and whether you want to top out.
Climbing the first pitch
The first pitch can fatten up to be quite easy, but early in the season the whole climb can be full-on vertical and chandeliery. Climb for about 40 meters to the base of the crux pillar and belay there. From there, you can climb the pillar direct and continue up a snow slope on your left to a slung boulder belay (check the slings).
To descend, rappel the route.
Two 60 meter ropes, usual ice rack.
External LinksCanadian Avalanche Association