King Line, Rocca Castello

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.42887°N / 7.24697°E
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 6a (French scale)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 7
Sign the Climber's Log


King Line

Rocca Castello 2452 m is a fine rocky peak belonging to the Castello-Provenzale Group. It's the Northernmost summit and the highest one of the group, overcoming the nearby Torre Castello for a few meter.  Rocca Castello is located between Colle Greguri 2319 m, a wide grassy saddle in the Northern side, and Forcella Castello 2420. Rocca Castello shows an high-quality orange and grey quartzite with several cracks suited for use natural protections.


The Castello Provenzale group
The Castello Provenzale group seen from the path to Colle Gregouri

Getting There

From the town of Cuneo take the Val Maira road and drive along the whole valley as far as Chiappera, a hamlet of Acceglio. At the crossroads to the Campo Base campsite, keep to the right and continue on the road (first paved, then dirt road) which leads to the Grange Collet. There are two possibilities:

The broad pasture plateau of the Grange Collet
The broad pasture plateau of the Grange Collet


Colle Gregouri, Torrione Figari on background
Colle Gregouri, Torrione Figari on background
the small group
The Castello Provenzale W side









A. Park the car in a parking lot on the right along the road and take the path that skirting the East side of the Castello-Provenzale group leading to the Colle Greguri (1 hour).

B. Alternatively continue driving along the dirt road until the Grange Collet, park in an open space and from here take the path to the right crossing a stream and rising to  the Colle Greguri (40 minutes).

Route Description

King Line topo
King Line topo




King Line report (French scale)

Summit altitude: 2452 m
Difficulty: TD, 6a mx (5c obbl.)

Equipment: bolts, stops with two stainless steel rings to be connected
Climbing length: 250 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Danilo Collino & C. may 2011
Starting point: Chiappera 1614 m (upper Valle Maira)

A beautiful line, the most direct route to the top of the Rocca Castello, which offers an attractive climbing on excellent quartzite on slabs and dihedrals.

The route is located between the routes "Giglio Farneticante" and Rinaudo. The starting point is located 10 m to the left of the Via Rinaudo. There is a cairn at the base.


Punta Figari, Torre e Rocca...
Punta Figari, Torre Castello e Rocca Castello






King Line, Rocca Castello
King Line, Rocca Castello
King Line, Rocca Castello
King Line, Rocca Castello

L1 - 5c Climb vertically on slabs overcoming a small slight overhang with a thin crack up to belay 
L2 - 5b Overcome a small dihedral and then on slabs up to the belay 
L3 - 5b Delicate start, then climb up the large spike until stopping on the left (at the base of the spike the route crosses the via Rinaudo coming to the right)
L4 - 5c Climb the compact slab up to the next dihedral with clear holds and then along an easy dihedral up to the belay 
L5 - 5a An easy pitch on dihedrals with a move near a belay of the route Rinaudo. 10 m higher there is the belay
L6 - 5c Overcome the obvious crack and then climb the compact black slab with delicate movements on small notches. Stop to the left on the edge
L7 - 6a Climb vertically up to the summit and then overcome a delicate move up to the cross.


Summit of Rocca Castello
Summit of Rocca Castello
Abseiling on the route King Line, Rocca Castello
Abseiling on the route King Line, Rocca Castello
Descent: abseiling on the same route (from S7 50 m, S5 40 m, S4 60 m, S2 60 m). Alternatively, you can use the descents of the East diagonal channel, the Balzola or Solo per Bruna

Essential Gear

Rope 2x60 m,  10 quickdraws and some medium-small friends to integrate the protection.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

When to climb 

Best season goes from May to the end of September


Different kind of accomodation in Acceglio. In Chiappera there is also a refuge with a campsite: Rifugio Campo Base 


Meteo Arpa Piemonte 

Guidebooks and maps


- Guidebooks

"Il Gruppo Castello-Provenzale"

"Monte Viso - Alpi Cozie Meridionali" by Michelangelo Romano - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

- Maps

IGC n.7 Valli Maira Grana e Stura 1:50000 



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.