At the left side of the coombe (Watzmannkar) Watzmann's wife or Kleiner Watzmann, 2307m, reigns over the valley of Berchtesgaden. The easiest way to the summit is the north-east ridge, that is described here. A beautiful descend to Mooslahnerkopf at the beginnig of eastern ridge is following (both are rated UIAA II). Starting point is the private hut of Kühroint.
Optimal starting point is the parking-place at Ramsau/Wimbachbrücke. From there you can ascend in about 3 hours via Schapbach-Boden to the lodging of Kühroint, 1.420m. Kühroint, a very nice private refuge, is point of support for routes to Kleiner Watzmann and Watzmannkar. Staying at Kühroint over night is recommendable (limited capacity, announce under 08652-7339 or 01713-533369). Kühroint can be reached in less than 3 hours from Schönau/Hammerstiel and Königssee, too.
First ascent of Kleiner Watzmann: Johann Grill ("Kederbacher") and Johann Punz, 1852.
The east-ridge was first ascended by Thiersch and fellows in 1926.
From Kühroint, passing the white hut, traverse the ascending pasture to the remains of an old ruinous ski-lift. Follow the narrow footpath through open alpine forest, that leads on top of the moraine ("Kederbichl"). Through a narrow lane of dwarf-pines the north-east ridge is reached. Great views into the coombe (Watzmannkar) and to the walls between Hocheck and main summit of Great Watzmann. Following the narrowing ridge to a vertiginious spot (difficulty UIAA II, existing hooks, 20m-rope is sufficient, for experienced mountaineers no rope nessescary). Subsequently the summit is reached across the broad north flank (3,5 hours from Kühroint). In the slabs below the summit a cavern is found (bivuaoc for approximately 8 persons, descend about 30m from the summit to the north, marked with a pole).
The summit presents survey of opposite middle-peaks eastern face above the coombe, especially the Wieder-Route
From the summit eastward down the broad ridge, follwing the best opportunities, general holding out somewhat to the left. In the inferior part of summits buttress a vestigial path is found, that leads down to the deep notch in eastern ridge of Kleiner Watzmann (points UIAA II). From the notch ascending the green slab, that is grown over with grass and can easily be seen from the summit. Behind the slab don't descend through the following groove (leading down to the snow-holes north of Kühroint) but turn right to the flank of the next ridge tower. Some cairns. Don't descend the next bigger groove too far. Leave the groove to the right and back to the top of the ridge. Follow the crest, repeatedly turning aside, until Mooslahnerkopf is reached at the end. Mooslahnerkopf, 1815m, is a vantage point offering great views down to Königssee and to the surrounding mountains. From Mooslahnerkopf down over a footpath. Crossing the forestry road back to Kühroint (another 3 hours from summit).
Guide in german language (not listed by amazon.com):
Schöner / Kühnhauser, Berchtesgadener Alpen
, guide of the german alpine club (Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV)
). Comprehensive presentation of ascends in the mountain range of Berchtesgaden (all difficulties). Contents: Massifs of Hochkalter
, Lattengebirge, Reiteralm, Hagengebirge, Steinernes Meer and Untersberg.
Published by Bergverlag Rudolf Rother GmbH
, Munich. ISBN 3-7633-1127-0, 22,90 Euro.
Beginners should use a rope at the crux of north-east ridge.