Kuffner Pillar on East Summit

Page Type
Engadin, Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Rock/Ice climb
Time Required:
A long day
III° rock,45-50° ice

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Kuffner Pillar on East Summit
Created On: Jan 21, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 21, 2004


The more suitable is the Diavolezza hut.

Route Description

The Kuffner route on the East summit of Piz Palù lies on the north buttress and is the easiest out the 3 north pillars: Kuffner from E summit, Bumiller from Central summit and Zippert from West summit.

If the conditions of the pillar are good the climb isn't difficult and you enjoy one of the best climb on Bernina Group.

From the Diavolezza hut follow the track to South of normal route on snow/ice fields (huge crevasses) for about 1,5 hours, then turn right to the flat plateau at the base of NE couloir of E summit ( dangerous ice fall ).
Reach the beginning of the rock spur at the more suitable point according to the mountain conditions.
Follow the rocky ridge (verglas) for about 2/3 of the pillar until you reach the last 1/3 of the route on snow/ice ridge 45/50° up to the summit.
For the pillar itself it took about 3,5 hours.
Having summited the East point we reached also the Central Summit by the easy snow ridge between the two summits.
The retour vie the normal route to Diavolezza hut.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe.

Miscellaneous Info

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