La Directe 5.7 - var 5.8

La Directe 5.7 - var 5.8

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.66665°N / 70.62806°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: II, original line 5.7 , 5.8 var. R
Sign the Climber's Log


Hike from the parking lot at Poste d'accueil Mont du lac des Cygnes.
Follow the trail to the base of the cliff, about 20 minutes with moderate scrambling.

Route Description

LA DIRECTE var. (blue line), II 5.8 R

Pitch 1 (White) 5.4 45m
Pitch 2 (Blue) 5.8 R 55m
Pitch 3 (Red) 5.5 R 40m
Pitch 2 (Yellow) 5.7 R 55m

This cliff has a wide variety of climbing: cracks, slabs, dihedrals, run outs, and high exposure.

Although La Directe 5.8 R and it's numerous variations is among Quebec's classic climbs, the climb involves some tricky moves in a slab traverse demanding chirurgical protection, route finding, zigzagging rope management and high exposure. Thus, we offer it an R, 5.8, and class II grades. R involves that some falls might be spooky, not life threatening… especially when they are on slabs, with small protection. Nerveless, this is a climb you must do, getting airy and seeing the beauty of the National Park.

• Pitch 1 : 5.4

Scramble the huge holds, gain the exiting dihedral and top out to the first belay passing a well protected slab to belay A

• Pitch 2 : 5.8 R

From the belay A, place some small TCU's in chirurgical thin cracks, go strait for 5m, then traverse for 15m on near-inexistent pro to a friendly system of cracks. From there run-out strait for the slightly overhanging (see this image, from 2nd belay) crack that eats all your pro, crux here and ten follow this crack to the 2nd belay (B).

• Pitch 3 : 5.5 R

Take the inviting crack 20m at your left and follow it to the top where it will disappear and form a friction run out (5.5) for 15m to the belay C.

5.8 Variation (Yellow Line)
From the belay A, go strait for 15m on poor protection till you clip the 2 bolts that protect a tricky slab crux and gain eventually some crack to belay B.

Rappel from belay A,B and C only with two 60metre ropes.

Essential Gear

Wide range of Small TCU's, Friends...
Normal medium range TCU's, Friends and NUTS
2 X 3 inch Friends
2 X 60m Ropes

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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