La Directe 5.7 - var 5.8 Climber's Log

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Luc - Aug 25, 2013 10:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2013

nice cliff  Sucess!

Did a 5.6 variation first pitch, should have done the 5.7 corner.


MtnMagic - Oct 12, 2007 12:20 pm

A few times  Sucess!

Nice page, I appreciated your photos and enjoyed reading your route description.

I've climbed both the original 5.6 line and the 5.8 variation of this climb. The 5.8 was by far the better line. However, I don't see why you've given the route an 'R' rating for both pitches 2 and 3. I thought they were extremely well protected. After a short protectable traverse, the second pitch crack just eats gear up until it peters out at a short cruxy bit protected by two bolts. The last pitch is a wonderful easy crack that could take a lot more gear than you really want to place.

I just hope that the 'R' rating you give the route won't deter climbers who could enjoy what I believe to be a fantastic and safe crack climb.


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