Lady Wilson's Cleavage, IV, 5.9

5th and 6th Pitches- 200’- 5.9/ Quite run out (if you follow my variation which allowed me to combine the two pitches) and the crux pitch. Climb the deep slotted chimney above, easy at first, then all features run out and you are constricted rather severly and forced to look for holds to the outside that do not exist. Stay in the off width and snake up until the steepness eases and you can move out to the face on your left. Place all larger gear down low except for the two #4’s which you can use for your station. Run out 5.7 face climbing takes you to several boulders where you can set up a belay station with one #1 and two #4’s. You only get two placements for 100’! if you follow this plan. A precarious #1 placement and a better #2 placement towards the end where the face climbing gets steeper and the rock worse. This pitch is not for the faint of heart. You can stay in the crack for easier and safer climbing via two pitches versus one.
Lady Wilson's Cleavage, IV, 5.9, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, March, 2008


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