Great climb with Dan P. We started from the car at 5:30 am or so, reached the summit at 4:15 pm. After a nice beer in the Eng valley, reached the car around 10 or 11. Great long, beautiful climbing day! Marred only slightly by loose rock.
The snowfield up to the start of the climb was probably the most unpleasant part (no fun and quite dangerous with EB's). Climb was nice for the first several pitches but the rock was quite rotten in the upper part - I wouldn't recommend the climb unless being the first party of the day. An approaching thundershower forced us to take the long way home i.e. take the normal (S) route instead of the Spindlerschlucht. Slept in a haystack near Mittenwald while it was pouring the whole night. Hitchhiked back to the Eng the following day and then had to hike up to the Falkenhütte again to get our sleeping bags. VERY long and quite eventful trip.
We failed in a severe thunderstorm. Fortunately we decided to rappel down before traversing to the Schmid-Krebs crack (crucial). Otherwise we have had to continue or bivouc since you can hardely climb back the traverse (ropes ending in the air). There was a long 5mm steel cable swinging in the air from a former rescue operation. We sat out the storm in a cave near the ground.
Sleeping in the bivouac shelter and enjoying sunrise and sunset up there was really exciting