South scramble route
Boealps BCC climb via standard south face.
Climbed Lane Peak Lover's Lane. Super easy styrofoam stepping. Didn't need to set pro but did since it was the first climb I did in three years because of two knee surgeries. Good to refresh. Got to the top and rapped down about 75-80ft. Soloed up the last bit of the zipper. Had a hard time with the top because the snow was super soft and it was easy to fall through in places to the boulders underneath the snow.
Short-ish, fun scramble. almost completely free of snow
A nice Spring outing with Matt, Jacob and Chad. I brought a rope and harness for a rappel, but opted not to use it. It's a steep loose scramble up the final gully, but fun despite all that.
Summit number four in our traverse from Pinnacle to Lane. This one was the funnest scramble!
What a fun little peak!
Want to go back for the north face couloirs!
Good climb up the zipper today. Didn't see the need for roping up or placing any pro in the zipper itself, although we had it. We didn't summit via the standard chute on the south side. Instead we climbed the very steep chute you see directly to west when come out of the zipper, it was sketchy good, no pro placed here either :) All of this was during quite the whiteout.
Headed up the zipper under great springtime conditions! Ice tools were helpful, as well as some pickets for the summit ridge.
Climbed the zipper route under gorgeous conditions! It helped to have a couple of ice tools, and the snow in the couloir was nice and firm.
Short approach, easy climb.
Climbed The Fly in variable snow conditions. Most of the coulier was in pretty good shape, but there were some areas of wallowing due to deep powder. The large boulder about half way up is still exposed, but passable if you bring ice tools. The summit block was covered in loosely consolidated snice, so we decided the coulier was good enough.
All around a fantastic climb!
First time was up the col east of the mountain but went back to do the Zipper a year later.
Most challenging of the peaks we did. Really a fun climb with good positive holds but some decent exposure. Some people might want to rap down it.
My favorite of our traverse day. Great climb up, awesome little knife edge summit, awesome views, fun rappel down. Thanks Kevin for a fun safe trip! Next stop: Wahpenayo
Climb w/ BJ; route and conditions permitted us a pretty easy climb. Zipper Route likely to be gone for year soon, as one section up high will break up further with warm temps and become difficult to negotiate. Moats on top were the definate crux on this day. Fun times!
11-23-07 - Too Early - Itching to get on some snow, Ian and I drove up to MRNP in the morning after hearing about how the Cascades had gotten like 2 feet of snow the weekend before. Problem was, that was about all this one had gotten. We planned to climb one of the two main couloirs but from the start it looked more like rock than snow.
Hiked down from Narada Falls and went cross country down into the drainage on the north side of the Tatoosh. Crossed some creeks and then bushwhacked up some tough vine maple, devils club and blackberry brambles. Got to the base of the rock and traversed west. Looked up The Zipper to see mostly ice and rock and didn't want anything to do with that one.
Donned crampons and made our way into The Fly which looked more promising but it was thin crust (or no crust at all) over sugar snow about a foot (at most) deep. We got up about halfway the couloir before a large boulder blocked our way.
Ian tried heading right but it was just exposed unprotectable rock. There was an icy chimney under the rock and then up but the ice was thin and did not sound right. Had to give up and downclimb 600 feet (not fun) with the thought of coming back much later in the season when this one fills in. Got back down to the creeks as darkness fell. Full moon lit our way back to the trail.
5/17/08 - Almost Too Late - Headed up with Ron in the early am. Started from Narada about 7:30. Lots more snow than November, we were able to pretty much make a beeline to the base of the route although we had to think light thoughts while crossing the stream (which was raging under the snow and breaking through in a few spots). Only about an hour to the base of The Zipper which we decided to do since we could see on the hike in that it was in.
A couple of rocks the size of frisbees whipped past us as we prepared to climb so I ended up doing most of the route with my head up watching for them. We took turns kicking steps. Must have been due to the NW-facing aspect of this protected gully but the snow was fairly decent (we had been worried about slush due to the near 90-degree temps in the area). About halfway up we climbed through most of the rockfall area and then cruised to the top of the route.
Once up, we were on the south-facing slopes of the summit pinnacle which were really slushy. We headed up what looked to be the obvious gully but came to an impassable moat shortly into it. We climbed up and right onto the rocks where we took off crampons and found a way to scramble to the summit ridge. From there, it was a short snowy edge to the summit.
We scrambled down west on the summit ridge to a tree where we rapped down over a couple deep moats/cracks in the snow we would not have wanted to downclimb. Then it was lots of slushy snow on the hike out from the saddle between Lane and Denman. Warm day but fun. Ended up having burgers at the place just outside the park entrance.
Pretty exposed scramble. Folks concerned with exposure may want to bring along a handline.
Six OSATers did the Traverse in the late spring from The Castle to Eagle, summiting them all. We camped just south of Lane Peak, which is the most enjoyable of the scrambles.