Around 1996, six OSATers did the Traverse in the late spring from The Castle to Eagle, summiting them all. We camped just south of Lane Peak, which is the most enjoyable of the scrambles.
Climbed the South Face. It was as I imagine Pinnacle peak was like a hundred years ago. Not that difficult but plenty loose and interesting in summer conditions. Reminds me of idiotic stuff I used to do in Canada in Southern Oregon before I got into technical climbing. Nothing like loose 4th class to humble climbers of all skills and abilities.
Deep snow made for tough climbing but fun route. Highly recommended for anyone wanting a short approach, one day outing. Good as winter or spring climbing.
We roped up but was not really necessary with the conditions we had. If the couloir is ice, roping up and placing pro would be recommended. The summit scramble was quite steep on deep snow. Not sure what this would look like late spring or low snow years.
Climbed the Zipper under deep powder conditions. At several times, I could not move forward because every time I tried to move up, snow just crumbled underneath me, creating a waist high wall. We must have spent 3 hours in the couloir, just struggling to make it up. The total climb took us 7 hours RT.
Deep powder made this a chore but the weather was outstanding. Reached the top 5 minutes before the sun set. Check out the Trip Report.
part of range traverse
Did this as a cushy overnight climb. We camped under clear skies after a short 45 minute approach. Got started up the route at sunrise on day 2. Snow had an infuriatingly inconsistent crust over 8 inches of mush making for difficult work getting to the base of the couloir. Reached the base of the couloir in just over an hour.
Once in the couloir, the snow was much more consistent and made for good mix of step-kicking and front-pointing. Didn't really need a second tool, but I was happy to use the one I'd brought. Topped out the couloir in another hour to bright sun and extremely warm temps. The southeast face was a mess of debris from the previous day's avalanches and the snow was about 24 inches of slush. We decided to skip the wallowfest to the summit and descend before conditions got any worse.
Descended to the east saddle (between Lane & Denman) and then down to the basin. Arrived in camp about 3.5 hours after we started.
Very sweet climb!