Matt Lemke - Mar 16, 2015 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2015
Chilean Side
After being rejected from the Argentina side for "insufficient gear" I stuck it to the goddamn Argentina rangers by climbing it in a day from the Chilean side a week later. Don't waste your time trying to abide by the rules on the Argentine side...just climb it from Chile. Long but beautiful day!
Old School WB - Sep 5, 2012 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Feb 25, 1997
Great solo day on normal route
After getting my butt kicked on Aconcagua, Phil and I headed south to explore southern Chile and Argentina. I ended up solo’ing Lanin Volcano via the normal route while Phil slept in the shelter since he wasn’t in the mood to slog up Lanin. I had a great solo climb on easy snow in a beautiful setting; no Aconcagua, but a pleasant snow climb to excellent views.
monkeypike - Jul 10, 2011 10:49 am Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009
Beautiful Volcano
Spent a few weeks in Lanin National Park gazing at this beautiful volcano before heading off on bikes from Junin to go and climb it. Took a day to the campsite, a short day up to Refugio CAJA, then a marathon day climbing to the summit, back down to the road and then cycling back to Junin.
A very nice climb in clear but chilly conditions, and only 4 others on the mountain that day.
Awesome weather which is odd in that part of the country. All around very pretty due to its prominence. Not enough snow this year made it quite a scree slog.
hellobeccalee - Oct 9, 2008 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2007
Chilean Route
We choose to climb a more remote route on Lanin from the Chilean side. We camped at the base and had a very long summit day but had great weather. Clear views of Villarica, Quetrupillan, and Lliama. You will need to have some good route finding skills (wands, compass) for this route, since there is no boot track (until you get to the Canaleta), be especially carefully if you have whiteout conditions.
I climbed Volcan Lanin from the Chilean side b/c the Argentine guardaparque had too many rules. This route is arguably easier (less glaciated), but is also more remote (no refugios). It is better to climb earlier in the year, as rockfall was a problem this late. A small, obvious crevasse must be crossed near the summit. Crampons and ice axe were not really necessary, but certainly would be in the spring.
gdrod - Nov 16, 2006 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2006
2006 march
We climbed the mountain via the normal route. Nice weather (not common)and a Great Summit View!!! Ariel Borgialli and Ivan Bonacalza also were in the team.
It's a good thing this isn't a "summit" post as we never actually made it to the top. Me, my wife, and our then 6 month old son (Nikolas) went - using the northern route - as far as the first Casa de Refugio (i.e., the one maintained by the military) with an amazing guide that we had contracted locally in San Martin de los Andes. It was an awesome, laid back trek through the base level forest, then through the volcanic rock field, then up the spine, and finally to the rest stop at 2,450 meters (where we lunched on smoked jabali, homemade chocolates, cheese, bread, and mate - a luxury). Our guide - a seasoned professional - tells us that Nick was his youngest client (even if he rode on my back for the better part of the trip). From that elevation we could see clear to the Argentine-Chilean border crossing, as well as several prominent Chilean peaks off to the NW. Slowed down by our less than optimal condition and surplus packing weight, it took us a good solid 5-6 hours to make the casa de refugio. We rested about an hour and then spent a good 2 hours on the descent. I would like nothing more than to go back, with the right gear and leaving my infant child behind, and go for the sumnmit. If the first leg was as good as what we experienced, the second must be even better!
Route Climbed: Standar Direct on north face via Tromen Pass Date Climbed: Winter 1998
Pretty nice climb, very smooth and rather easy. The weather was no good that day, and all of the 3 shelters were packed. My partner Diego Lon did not want to go up and I joined the rope of Sargento the Infanteria Segundo (Sargent Segundo, from the Argentinean Army), who made me climb, together with his client "like in the army! However, I enjoyed the climb. Watch out for the ugly Patagonian mosquitos called “tabanos”.
Matt Lemke - Mar 16, 2015 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Mar 7, 2015
Chilean SideAfter being rejected from the Argentina side for "insufficient gear" I stuck it to the goddamn Argentina rangers by climbing it in a day from the Chilean side a week later. Don't waste your time trying to abide by the rules on the Argentine side...just climb it from Chile. Long but beautiful day!
Old School WB - Sep 5, 2012 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Feb 25, 1997
Great solo day on normal routeAfter getting my butt kicked on Aconcagua, Phil and I headed south to explore southern Chile and Argentina. I ended up solo’ing Lanin Volcano via the normal route while Phil slept in the shelter since he wasn’t in the mood to slog up Lanin. I had a great solo climb on easy snow in a beautiful setting; no Aconcagua, but a pleasant snow climb to excellent views.
monkeypike - Jul 10, 2011 10:49 am Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009
Beautiful VolcanoSpent a few weeks in Lanin National Park gazing at this beautiful volcano before heading off on bikes from Junin to go and climb it. Took a day to the campsite, a short day up to Refugio CAJA, then a marathon day climbing to the summit, back down to the road and then cycling back to Junin.
A very nice climb in clear but chilly conditions, and only 4 others on the mountain that day.
Very brief trip report here: www.pikesonhikes.blogspot.com
PAROFES - May 27, 2010 12:03 pm Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2010
I was not easy but i did it!After wishing to be there for 2 years, finaly i could step on its summit and enjoy that spetacular view...
Blue skies, no wind, awesome!
Josh_Inked - Mar 6, 2009 12:55 pm
Normal routeAwesome weather which is odd in that part of the country. All around very pretty due to its prominence. Not enough snow this year made it quite a scree slog.
hellobeccalee - Oct 9, 2008 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2007
Chilean RouteWe choose to climb a more remote route on Lanin from the Chilean side. We camped at the base and had a very long summit day but had great weather. Clear views of Villarica, Quetrupillan, and Lliama. You will need to have some good route finding skills (wands, compass) for this route, since there is no boot track (until you get to the Canaleta), be especially carefully if you have whiteout conditions.
paisajeroamericano - Feb 29, 2008 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Feb 5, 2008
Cara ChilenaI climbed Volcan Lanin from the Chilean side b/c the Argentine guardaparque had too many rules. This route is arguably easier (less glaciated), but is also more remote (no refugios). It is better to climb earlier in the year, as rockfall was a problem this late. A small, obvious crevasse must be crossed near the summit. Crampons and ice axe were not really necessary, but certainly would be in the spring.
gdrod - Nov 16, 2006 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2006
2006 marchWe climbed the mountain via the normal route. Nice weather (not common)and a Great Summit View!!! Ariel Borgialli and Ivan Bonacalza also were in the team.
Fabrice.Rimlinger - Nov 11, 2006 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2006
Normal routeUnsually good weather and great views.3h to the top from BC. Easy mountain but hard ice at the end ... take care !
Bob & Konrad Kossick - May 5, 2006 2:07 am
Weekend WarriorsIt's a good thing this isn't a "summit" post as we never actually made it to the top. Me, my wife, and our then 6 month old son (Nikolas) went - using the northern route - as far as the first Casa de Refugio (i.e., the one maintained by the military) with an amazing guide that we had contracted locally in San Martin de los Andes. It was an awesome, laid back trek through the base level forest, then through the volcanic rock field, then up the spine, and finally to the rest stop at 2,450 meters (where we lunched on smoked jabali, homemade chocolates, cheese, bread, and mate - a luxury). Our guide - a seasoned professional - tells us that Nick was his youngest client (even if he rode on my back for the better part of the trip). From that elevation we could see clear to the Argentine-Chilean border crossing, as well as several prominent Chilean peaks off to the NW. Slowed down by our less than optimal condition and surplus packing weight, it took us a good solid 5-6 hours to make the casa de refugio. We rested about an hour and then spent a good 2 hours on the descent. I would like nothing more than to go back, with the right gear and leaving my infant child behind, and go for the sumnmit. If the first leg was as good as what we experienced, the second must be even better!
Peter Eliassen - Jul 22, 2004 3:54 pm
Route Climbed: Border Patrol Entrance Date Climbed: March 4, 2004What a great climb...9K feet in two days is a bunch, but well worth it. Got lost on the descent, every glacial valley looks the same!
Glenn Gardner - Jun 25, 2004 9:06 pm
Route Climbed: North Face variation Date Climbed: January 13, 2003Great climb...I highly recommend it. This was my wife's first mountain climb and she both agonized but loved it. Be prepared and have a blast.
Pedro Hauck - Oct 20, 2003 11:00 pm
Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: march 2000nice mountain
El Tigre Valderrama - Jun 18, 2002 5:45 pm
Route Climbed: Standar Direct on north face via Tromen Pass Date Climbed: Winter 1998Pretty nice climb, very smooth and rather easy. The weather was no good that day, and all of the 3 shelters were packed. My partner Diego Lon did not want to go up and I joined the rope of Sargento the Infanteria Segundo (Sargent Segundo, from the Argentinean Army), who made me climb, together with his client "like in the army! However, I enjoyed the climb. Watch out for the ugly Patagonian mosquitos called “tabanos”.