Lappy McDome, 5.8-5.11

Overview/Approach

Carnivore Pinnacle and Lappy McDome are a couple of west facing walls located on the southside of a gully that separates them from Sheepshead Dome.  It is a decent sized approach (1 hr) just for cragging, but that would be typical for the Stronghold.  We climbed this wall on a rainy day where it would not make sense to get on longer routes.  The ledge running along its base offers tremendous views and mature shade trees.  The two moderate sport routes, Love Lettuce, 5.10-***, and Crystal Gardens, 5.10-***, offer exceptional slab leads at the grade.

Approach as you would for Phony Pony at Sheepshead’s south end.  In other words, after several switchbacks on the normal approach trail, exit into the main gully at the south end of the formation and ascend it to its terminus.  At the end, there is a hand line (2021).  Use it to ascend a boulder, turn left and up some vegetation and then turn right along a vegetated ledge to the base of the hidden Lappy McDome.  Treat Me is easy to identify from the route description below.  

You can descend all of the routes with a single rope by rapping from a fixed rap located climbers left from where you top out on Treat Me.  Angle climbers left to another single rope rap from a set of rap anchors atop the Last Stronghold Hardman.  There is a fixed rap (same last rap for Phony Pony) that is on the south facing wall (Sheepshead side) at the top of the gully that makes gaining the descent gully much easier than returning down the fixed line.

Route Descriptions, Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

Last Stronghold Hardman- 5.8RX/

Treat Me- 200’-5.8*/ A good warmup for the two stellar 5.10 sport climbs to the right.  Climb through three bolts that access a crack/seam that protects well.  Turn up and right following a minor chimney like feature up to a ledge with a double rope fixed rap for the 5.10 routes.  Continue up a juggy plate past another bolt to the top of the formation and belay from a tree.  Scramble down from the tree directly to a fixed rap.  Take two single rope raps to the ground.  Single rack to #3. Dow

Love Lettuce- 180’-5.10-***/ The slightly more challenging of the two 5.10 side by side sport climbs.  Thoughtful and sustained movement through 18 clips.  The crux is when the wall changes angle.  Fixed rap hangers, but either a single 80m is required or doubles, otherwise, continue up to the top and use Treat Me’s two rap stations.  Dow

Crystal Gardens- 170’-5.10-***/ Almost identical to Love Lettuce.  Not quite as sustained.  You make a fun exposed move right onto the next wall, but below grade. The crux would be near the end via some side pulls and balance steps on crystals.  Same descent options as Love Lettuce.  Fully bolted. Dow

Old and in the Way- 5.11R*/