Lauteraargrat / traverse from Schreckhor

Page Type
Route
Location:
Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Rock climb, basic snow/ice
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
D+/S+

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Lauteraargrat / traverse from Schreckhor
Created On: Mar 19, 2004
Last Edited On: Mar 19, 2004

Overview


The "Lauteraargrat" is part of one of the most beautiful traverses of the whole Berner Alpen. The whole epic starts at the Schreckhorn hut, travels over the summit of the Schreckhorn to the Schreckhorn saddle, then follows the NW-ridge ("Lauteraargrat") to the Lauteraarhorn and finally descents the Lauteraarhorn.

Because of the difficulties and length it's only recommended for good and persistent parties. Most parties will do the route direction Schreckhorn to Lauteraarhorn. This offers the better climbing but the late descent of the Lauteraarhorn may be dangerous (avalanches) if there is much snow.

Approach


The description here is direction Schreckhorn hut to Aarbiwak, so trailhead is Grindelwald.

The first thing is to do is the hike to the Schreckhorn hut (6-7 hours from Grindelwald ), this is one of the most beautiful trails to a hut of the Berner Alpen. See main page for details.

The Aarbiwak is reached from the Grimslehospitz at the road to the Grimselpass in about 7 hours, First follow the trail at the shore of the Grimselsee, the on the Lauteraargletscher (marked) to the Aarbiwak.

Route Description


There are several parts of the route:

1. Ascent Schreckhornhütte - Schreckhorn using the regular route, rated ZS+, 6-7 hours, this is one of the most difficult regular routes to one of the 4000m peaks of the alps. For many this is a big route by itself.
2. Descent Schreckhorn - Schrecksattel, rated ZS+, 1-2 hours
3. Traverse Schrecksattel - Lauteraarhorn ("Lauteraargrat"), rated S+, some pitches up to UIAA 4, 4-5 hours. At the Lauteraargrat it's recommended to stay close to the real ridge, the rocks beside the ridge are somewhat broken.
4. Descent Lauteraarhorn to Aarbiwak , rated ZS-, 3h or alternative descent Lauteraarhorn - Schreckhornhütte, rated ZS-, 6 hours. In both cases the regular route of the Lauteraarhorn is used. This descent may turn dangerous at the S-face couloir if there is much snow (avalanches). There is a alternative rock ridge wich may be used instead as a more safer alternative.

See the overview picture for details.

Essential Gear


Rope, helmet, small rack (friends, nuts), may be some pitons, food, ice axe, crampons

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.