Nicely written, Liba. I've admired "Layton the Great 'Un" (as Chris Jones refers to him in "Climbing In North America") since reading about his role in ascending the Harlan Direttissima many years ago. Your article had a lot of interesting facts about the man that I never knew. Thanks for writing this.
-Gordon
Layton impressed all his companions on the John Harlin Diretissima of the Eiger. Chris Bonington stated of him during this ascent: on normal grounds, clumsy and gangling, he had difficulties to control the members of his immense body. But on rock, he became himself... the delicate and precise way he was moving was a pleasure for the eye, for a man so tall, his weight power ratio was excellent. He was so much better than everyone else on critical aided pitches that they left to Layton the task to overtake the most difficulties aided parts of the climb and particularly a key traverse, on which Chris said that for Layton nothing was impossible, no one but Layton could have done it without the use of bolts, a true artist made for this type of highly specialised climbing. But following him was not easy as there was so much space in between his pegs!
Yes, Layton quite an admired climber and rightly so.
ozarkmac - May 14, 2013 9:34 am - Voted 10/10
A fitting tribute...Thanks!
Liba Kopeckova - May 14, 2013 4:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A fitting tribute...thanks for reading it:). I thought we should mention him since many of us climb his routes.
Silvia Mazzani - May 14, 2013 12:06 pm - Voted 10/10
Great article......Liba about a great climber i didn't know.
Thanks!
Silvia
Liba Kopeckova - May 14, 2013 4:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great article...Thanks Silvia,
Layton was like a dynamo and established many new routes all over US.
Noondueler - May 15, 2013 9:40 pm - Voted 10/10
The first photo on pageTaken by Galen Rowell of Layton topping out on an El Cap 1st ascent back in the day. It was a Kodak Brownie snapshot if I'm correct.
Liba Kopeckova - May 15, 2013 11:19 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The first photo on pageyes, by Gallen Rowell - signature of the photographer on the side of the photo. I don't know how it was taken. Thanks.
ywardhorner - May 21, 2013 8:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Great tribute to a giant.Thanks for posting this! --- Yvette
Liba Kopeckova - May 21, 2013 9:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great tribute to a giant.Thanks Yvette... I was thinking it would be nice to have something written about him on SP, but did not spend too much time on the project...
boyblue - May 23, 2013 6:19 pm - Voted 10/10
EloquentNicely written, Liba. I've admired "Layton the Great 'Un" (as Chris Jones refers to him in "Climbing In North America") since reading about his role in ascending the Harlan Direttissima many years ago. Your article had a lot of interesting facts about the man that I never knew. Thanks for writing this.
-Gordon
Liba Kopeckova - May 24, 2013 9:40 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Eloquentthank you Gordon. I thought we should have some tribute to him on SP...
ericvola - May 28, 2013 4:19 am - Voted 10/10
Layton on the Harlin diretissima - EigerLayton impressed all his companions on the John Harlin Diretissima of the Eiger. Chris Bonington stated of him during this ascent: on normal grounds, clumsy and gangling, he had difficulties to control the members of his immense body. But on rock, he became himself... the delicate and precise way he was moving was a pleasure for the eye, for a man so tall, his weight power ratio was excellent. He was so much better than everyone else on critical aided pitches that they left to Layton the task to overtake the most difficulties aided parts of the climb and particularly a key traverse, on which Chris said that for Layton nothing was impossible, no one but Layton could have done it without the use of bolts, a true artist made for this type of highly specialised climbing. But following him was not easy as there was so much space in between his pegs!
Yes, Layton quite an admired climber and rightly so.
Liba Kopeckova - May 28, 2013 8:32 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Layton on the Harlin diretissima - Eigerthank you so much... I just heard how much energy this man possessed!!!
Sad to see that he struggled the last few years of his life, and his family has a hard time covering his medical bills. I guess climbers...:)
ozarkmac - Oct 8, 2013 10:41 am - Voted 10/10
Pat Ament tributeShort. Sweet.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212390