Leading pitch four of Epinephrine
. This is near to where you switch from chimney climbing to face/crack climbing (30 feet to the belay). I've led this two ways: go deep into the chimney and grovel (5.9 squeeze) but with pro almost on demand OR stay near the outside of the chimney (there's a bolt there now? retrobolt job?) and make your way up in the wider section (only 5.6-5.7) with a slight runout (May 29, 2005).