Lebowski Wall, 5.8-5.12

Overview/Approach

There are several fully bolted cragging walls on the east side of the Cochise Stronghold.  By far the best of these walls is the Lebowski Wall, offering up a variety of grades (5.8-5.12), good lengths (many are two pitches worth), solid rock and sustained climbing at the respective grades (found lacking at Zappa Dome for example).  The local guide insinuates that You’re Entering a World of Pain, 5.12-***, is one of the better bolted 5.12’s at Cochise.  I can confirm that one of the better bolted 5.11’s, We Believe in Nothing, 5.11+**, makes its home here as well as several stellar 5.10+ routes:  You’re Out of Your Element, 5.10+** and This Aggression Will Not Stand, 5.10+*.  I thought the Dude Abides, 5.8*, was an outstanding 5.8 single pitch.  Nobody Fucks with the Jesus, 5.10-*, was worth doing for sure.

There are several unfinished projects on this wall as of 2020.  Therefore, your route count via bolted lines might be off vs the completed routes I have listed below left to right.

Take the second right after passing the cattle guard which is the first right after the interpretative sign.  Follow the dirt road as it meanders through the free campsites.  Park at the northwest corner of a square island of grass made by such road.  A small pullout accommodates two to three vehicles.  Hike north from this spot on a well-traveled and cairned climbers trail as it switchbacks up to the center of the Lebowski Wall above.  Nobody Fucks with the Jesus is to the left, the Big Lebowski is directly above where the trail lands you and the Dude Abides and You’re Out of Your Element start in an alcove just to the right.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face this East Face

I Dabbled in Pacifism- 3 Pitches-5.10+**/

Nobody Fucks with the Jesus- 2 Pitches-5.10-*/ Ever since I climbed a route named Cooler Than Jesus near Moab, I have been on a mission to climb all the "Jesus" routes I come across.  Not to mention Jesus was possibly the finest character in the Big Lebowski. This one did not disappoint.  I combined the two pitches for one lead and, if extended properly, this makes total sense.  The start looks ugly and hides the good wall/rock above.  Pull a chossy and blocky flake past a bolt, the only visible bolt from below.  When you get ready to mantle it you can clip a second bolt above it.  Move across a bushy ledge to the left and continue up a fun and pristine face via slab edges to a recessed fixed belay/rap.  Pull out of this recess on steep ground via side pulls or layback and trend up right with some cool stemming.  Rap the route with a single 70m. The middle station has rap hangers.  Need about 15 draws, half of which need to be extendable to avoid rope drag if you are going to combine the pitches. Dow

Calmer Than You- 3 Pitches-5.11-*/

Big Lebowski- 3 Pitches-5.9**/ Right where the trail ends at the base of the middle of the wall, there is a low angled ramp leading to a bolt.  The first pitch (5.7) follows this to a rap/belay anchor in a scoop.  I combined the last two pitches easily.  Traverse out right of the scoop and continue up the steep face via positive features passing another fixed rap/belay and onto a small bushy ledge below a singular bolt to finish.  This direct finish involves a 5.10 PG13 exposed move off the ledge.  The original finish is up the easy ramp to the left.  Rap the route with a single rope.  Competent climbers can rap from the 2^nd station with a single 70m with a tad bit of downclimbing to reach the ground. Although recommended as a better route in the guide, I did not find it nearly as interesting as the Dude Abides (same grade). Dow

You Can Imagine Where It Goes From Here- 3 Pitches-5.8+R/

The Dude Abides- 110’-5.8*/ Listed as a two-pitch route in the local guide with the first pitch at 80’, in reality this is a single pitch route at 110’.  To pretend there is a 2^nd pitch worth climbing would be contrived.   I consider this route more interesting than the Big Lebowski.  Cowboy up the leftward broad arete opposite of You’re Out of Your Element (set in an alcove).  At times you are hugging the arete.  Traverse left over airy ground and continue up to a full-on hanging belay/rap below a small roof with large patina features above.  A single 70m gets you straight down. Dow

You’re Out of Your Element- 70’-5.10+**/ This is the best route I have climbed on the wall to date and one of the better bolted single pitch climbs in the Stronghold, relative to grade.  The fist bolt is a bit contrived.  Make an easy mantle over it and start the strenuous stem up the bolted concaved corner.  Quite a few side pulls and awkward stemming as the route remains sustained at the grade.  Near the top, traverse right via a balance move at the grade (crux of the route) almost to the 5.12 line and then up and back left to the fixed rap.  Dow

You’re Entering a World of Pain- 75’-5.12-***/

We Believe in Nothing- 65’-5.11+**/

This Aggression Will Not Stand- 2 Pitches-5.10+*/ This is my second favorite route on the wall as of 2020.  This first and second pitches are completely different in style.  The first pitch (5.10+) involves punchy (slightly overhanging at times) sharp edges and the second pitch involves more slab climbing (5.10-).  The first bolt is shared with We Believe in Nothing.  Then trend up and right with a lot of sideward slightly overhanging movement but with mostly positive holds.  Fixed rap/belay anchor at 75’.  Make a move at the grade (5.10-) off the belay and trend up and left following slab.  Eventually you end up in the crack to the right for the final few meters.  Rap anchor atop at 90’.  Make two single rope raps straight down utilizing the rap anchor atop We Believe in Nothing.  Dow

Amphibious Rodent- 80’-5.11*/

Logjammin’- 2 Pitches-5.10-R*/