Left Side Cracks, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The local guide does list one route named after the formation, Amplified Gravity Dome, for this feature located deep in the canyon.  However, Left Side Cracks is not described by the local guide book author as of 2022.  The summit of this dome is one of the more striking in the Stronghold as it resembles more of a tower than dome.  Only two routes are published as of 2022 and the bushwhack up to the west face sees little to no human traffic. 

The Left Side Cracks route is worth climbing for the avid Stronghold climber.  Its third pitch is a charm.  The other pitches offer little excitement or sustained movement.  Therefore, you do reach the summit in short order.  To be able to reach a summit with zero pro bolts in the Stronghold is unique.  The only two bolts on the route are associated with the summit rap.

Hike past Whale Dome in the West Stronghold.  Ascend the mini wall in the wash (3^rd class) and soon after look to ascend the bush choked slope on your right.  There is no easy way, just weave between the brush and agave to the left end of the west face and locate a wide right facing chossy corner that is the start.  The first pitch ends at an obvious tree trending right above. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 200’-5.9/ At the very left end of the west face, locate a right facing short and wide corner.  Stem up to engage the corner (crux) off the deck.  Fists turn to hands quickly.  Jam the corner to its top and continue up slightly trending right.  The climbing gets easier the higher you go.  Traverse up and right to an obvious mature (slung 2022) tree.  Pass the tree on its right to avoid cacti.  Use the tree for a belay which is also serves as your 2^nd rap back down.

2^nd Pitch- 115’-5.9/ MP.com calls this 5.9 but we never felt it.  Traverse right via easy underclings and climb a finger crack up, below grade, while continuing to trend up and right.  If led appropriately with double rope technique, this pitch is easily combined with the 3^rd pitch.  Otherwise, stop on the ridgeline.

3^rd -4^th Pitches- 110’-5.10-/ These are not the best two pitches to combine due to rope drag, but it was my lead and I prefer to get routes done in a reasonable matter.  MP.com has them split with a final pitch of 40’.   The 3^rd pitch is one of the better pitches at the grade for trad climbing in Cochise.  Head up the left leaning blocky steep corner via fun movement and solid pro.  The crux is lay-backing into a wide short corner near the top that protects well with a #2 underneath and #4 higher up.  Finish to the ledge with the summit block.  Traverse around right and up blocky 5.7 terrain to the summit and fixed rap.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make two double 60m rope raps back to the base of the route.  One straight down from the summit back to the slung tree atop the first pitch.  One more double rope rap to the ground.  Rap slings on tree in good order as of 2022.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  Single to #4.  Double to #.75.  Route receives sun shortly after noon in the winter.  The 3^rd pitch remains shaded most of the day, as it is essentially north facing.