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5759 Hits
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73.75% Score
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5 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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42.34280°N / 8.87710°E |
Route Type:
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Scrambling |
Season:
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Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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PD (UIAA II) |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
"Les Cheminées de Foggiale" (the Foggiale chimneys) lead straight from the Epaule Foggiale on the south side of Paglia Orba to the summit.
Access through the viru valleyGetting There
Just follow the (lots of) cairns from Ref. Ciuttoli-di-i-mori and always stick to the most eastern ones. This will lead you to the Epaule Foggiale (about 2300m).Alternatively, take the GR20 path in direction to Col di Fogghiale and turn straight northwards about half the way to the col.
Capu Tafunatu and Paglia Orba. Ref. Ciuttoli-di-i-mori is circledRoute Description
A stick on top of another (last) cairn indicates the entry of the route at the Epaule, here you follow a crack for ten meters straight up and then traverse along a ramp to the right. This part is visible from the Epaule. A nearly vertical piece then is faciliated with an anchor and a sling, otherwise the whole thing would be far more difficult. After several meters on easy terrain a big cairn appears followed by a chimney with a big block jammed on top. It may be unterrun if you're smart enough.Above this another sling is placed an the further ascent is without difficulties. The summit in fact is a large plateau that has to be traversed in northeastern direction to the highest point. Beautiful & breathtaking views into the Fango valley.
The route
The route (zoomed)Essential Gear
Hiking equipment for confident people; otherwise basic climbing gear should be sufficient as long as the rock is dry.Remark: As far as I got from the french guidebook, this route espacially is recommended for rappelling (after climbing the more difficult routes of Paglia Orba), as the normal route is a bit longer.
For ascension the rating "PD" in my opinion includes the use of the slings mentioned above.
External Links
This route is rarely mentiones in the net, the only quotes I found:http://www.actionreporter.com/001.monde/002.corse/page_reportage_b.html (scroll down, several routes are hint)
http://www.basislager.ch/az/archivdet.php?Id=2457&s=1&sb=Foggiale
chugach mtn boy - Jun 18, 2017 9:33 pm - Voted 10/10
2008 UpdateIn late May of 2008, the cairns and aid sling above the Epaule were missing. Here's what I observed: We reached the ramp that slopes upward from left to right above the Epaule via the wet chimney that goes up straight from the crest of the Epaule. This short chimney is YDS Class 4. After walking the ramp, the second little pitch is a tight chimney with a small chockstone, about YDS 5.0. One is then faced with three options: the final chimney described on the route page(snow-filled and scary-looking in late May), an easy 5th-class groove about 25 meters to the right of the chimney (wet in late May), and a face with a crack about halfway between them. The middle route is ~YDS 5.0, very pleasant; after that you walk to the top. A couple of slings and a small stopper will protect all pitches if desired.