Nolan and myself up here for the weekend and climbed this rte today. An awesome day and fun rte. Getting rather hot and buggy though and glad we got an early start.
With Phil Dyment, we traversed a snowfield to get to the rock and then being behind another party (imagine that...ha, ha.) we progressed slowly for several pitches. Still we finished in 10 hours and were back to the car just before dark. Surprisingly hard near the end as I recall. Very cool route, but the descent seemed to take forever on the trail.
The North Cascades are beautiful during this time. No crowds. No waiting. Just fantastic climbing. On the approach hike we stood in a heard of mountain goats. I had to chase one away since he was on the climbing route above me. We also saw ptarmigans. The weather was sunny and warm. What a wonderful view at the summit. I will do this again next year.
1979 with Monica Spicker
1982 with Paul Bishop
2002 with Tanya Spicker.
We also got stuck ropes on the rappel. Otherwise a fun climb.
Third time's a charm they say. It was my third try and I finally made it.