Climbed in one day. my first grade V. led pitches 2, 5, 6, and 8 the way we did it, that was the lithuanian lip, the 5.8 and 5.7 free pitches below the rotten block, and the 5.9 section at the end.
Climbed this 4 times with 4 different partners. Once in 2 days and 3 times in 1 day. Did the Medusa roof variation 1 time, standard route the other 3.
Absolutely fantastic climb. A classic for sure. 13 hours car to car. Climbed with Tom as usual. I felt pretty worked when we reached the summit, but all was good. Snow was obnoxious to deal with at the base. Had to do a half pitch of traverse to even get to the route. Sketchy. Went really light on this trip. Left absolutely everthing unessential at the car, and that really paid off. 100 ounces of water was not quite enough for me. Ran out on the last low angle stuff of the last pitch. Would have been nice to have some for the hike out. 5 cliff bars seemed plenty, although I didn't remember to eat very well. Liquid diet was almost better. If I had one complaint about the route it would be about some of the fixed gear. Some brass heads are absolutely horrible and don't inspire any confidence when aiding over them. There are a couple of loose lost arrows on the thing too.
Good climb - we climbed it in one long day, using aid on all the pitched that had aid.