Lithoid Cusp

These peaks between Ipasha Peak and Mount Merritt were still unclimbed as of 1990, according to climber and author J. Gordon Edwards. The highest of them is called the Lithoid Cusp. Gordon notes that reaching the peaks requires a harrowing descent of over 1000' from either Ipasha or Merritt and then a dangerous climb to the base(s).

Glacier National Park, MT-- August 2009

Update-- some climbers reached the summit in the summer of 2014 and reported finding a rap station, so it is unknown who climbed this objective first, and when.


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FlatheadNative - Aug 23, 2009 9:21 am - Voted 10/10

Next Year....

since the DT was so easy perhaps we should do something really difficult next year. Come to think of it the weather will probably be really poor on the day we plan to do this one.

Great photo... I won't be doing this any time soon. We will have to leave this one for the folks that like to climb with ropes.

Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Aug 23, 2009 9:28 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Next Year....

Yeah, I'm with you on that. Talk about an FA that's really worth bragging about!

Something I'd like to try is the north face on Clements. Very short approach, of course, but it seems complicated and is supposed to be quite exposed.

Or Little Chief, which is hard in a different way. Or Walton Mountain, both hard and long.


FlatheadNative - Aug 23, 2009 3:09 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Next Year....

Lots of challenging things to do. So little time. We are climbing Jackson tomorrow. Hopefully the weather holds.


suddendescent - Aug 24, 2009 2:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Unbelieveable !

Apart from Alaska, I didn't suspect such a place existed in the continental U.S...

Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Aug 24, 2009 2:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Unbelieveable !

Glacier's like a little slice of that kind of country. The North Cascades are, too. And it's a lot less expensive to go there!


samh - Nov 13, 2011 12:52 pm - Voted 10/10


Hey Bob, to the best of your knowledge is the Cusp still unclimbed?

Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Nov 14, 2011 3:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Still?

As far as I know, yes.

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