Started at 0400 at the big parking lot just off hwy 150 (8000ft). 0930 I made Lake Como. Approx. 1215, I made it to the "Hourglass Couloir." By 1300, I was on the top. 1345 to 1500 got hailed and rained on, and by 1900 I was back to the car. The "fixed lines" were pretty manky (one had a ten foot section of missing sheath), and both had been cut out and retied, but they held me on descent. It's probably safer to do as a spring snow climb. Glad to have been solo up in the "bowling alley". Outstanding time!
We went up and camped in one of the huts at Lake Como on the 21st and woke up and headed up the first couloir up to the ridge around 4:45AM. On top of the ridge we had some fantastic views of the alpenglow consuming the valley as the sun rose.
The hourglass was in fairly good shape, although there were a couple spots where the snow was so hard that we were simply frontpointing it with our crampons as if we were climbing a waterfall in Ouray or something. Anyways, this is perhaps my favorite 14'er to date as both the climb and the views from the top were absolutely breathtaking.
Great snow climb of the Hourglass. Great weather and a great summit!
Awesome weather and spectacular snow climb. Mostly snow in the hourglass all the way to the summit. Some tricky downclimbing, but a great glissade back to the lake.
Yep, a long, endless talus route - considering the tread wear on my Asolos, I left about $40 dollars of boot on the ridge. However, I didn't have to dodge any rocks or yell a single embarrassing "ROCK!" from rocks I kicked loose. The traverse from South Little Bear to Little Bear took almost 2 hours - lots of route finding. But the return trip took just under 20 minutes (we knew the way by then). Use a GPS with trackback turned on for the bushwhacking!
Fantastic climb - my first Class 4 peak......and I loved it! We started hiking the Lake Como road at 2:00am, reached the lake by 6:00am, and summitted around 9am. We were fortunate to be the first up the hourglass that day, which lessened the risk of rockfall. We only saw 3 other people on the mountain that day (with very good weather too!)
March 15, 2013- winter summit with emily and jason via the southwest ridge. terrain got interesting just before the southern summit, and didn't relent. the ledges leading to the main summit are fantastic when covered in snow!
May 6, 2007- jamie and i climbed the hourglass today. it was alot steeper(55 degrees) than expected. perch made for an awesome snow climb on really hard snow....feet still hurt from kicking steps!
July 25, 2006- climbed the northwest face(hand route) in 1:59 from the como area high camp in preparation for the traverse to blanca. it wasn't super exposed like i expected, but it was nice to ascend another way than the hourglass.
What Brad said. Daytrip from the road.
Kalet and I had this peak all to ourselves on a very rainy day. Started the traverse to Blanca, but couldn't see anything b/c of thick fog, and everything was dangerously wet from the incessant rain. Turned back, climbed back over LB and descended via the soaking wet hourglass.
4 wheeled for a while up the road, hiked in and did ellingwood and blanca. Great weather, set up a bivy and climbed little bear the next day via nw face. Fantastic 4th class climbing. Descended the hourglass, scary rockfall. All in all, best 14er to date.
Good fun, the hourglass is everything it is hyped up to be. Start early. We had perfect weather and the summit all to ourselves.
Fun outing, I second the Gator Farm and for Pete's sake, don't bring you dog on this climb.
Good Times! Be sure to stop by the Gator Farm and the UFO Observation Tower on the way out of the valley!
The keyword for this mountain is route-finding! Had perfect weather though, mountain to myself. Ice in the hourglass in the AM and a veritable stream in the PM. BE CAREFUL! It is MUCH looser above the hourglass than what you might have read. If you take your time, this is actually an enjoyable climb.
Easily the most difficult route on any mountain I have done, but I am not much of a rock climber. Very airy ridge indeed. I was testing the hand and footholds! We hoped to have a nice snow climb in the hourglass but the lack of snow made us go with the n.w. face.
Seeing climbers heading up Hourglass we picked the NW face. Fun climbing, though pretty spicy for those not comfortable with big exposure and loose rock with some actual climbing moves. For those OK with the above, a fun time (though it wouldn't be fun to get stuck there in bad weather, to put it lightly). Very cool mountain and area, as we were hiking out 2 hour lightning/hail downpour was pretty epic. Almost as epic as the drive up!!
We climbed Blanca first from Como Lake, then descended south into Blanca Basin and climbed up the South Ridge of Little Bear in a snow storm. Descended the Hourglass Couloir and worked our way back to Como Lake.
We were the only group on the mountain this day. The scramble up to the West Ridge was not too bad, except for the fact that we were a bit confused by what the obvious notch was. Once that was sorted out, it was pretty straighforward.
I would argue that the hourglass is in fact the best climbing on the route. Easy 4th class, just dangerous in terms of rock fall potential. The section above the hourglass seems much worse, especially if you get off route.
This would be awesome with late May/June snow.
I climbed this solo. The gully up to the the ridge was one of the worst scree slopes I've ever been on. The climbing in the hourglass was somewhat interesting but slippery, scary, and loose. Above the the hourglass it was even worse. The route-finding was very complicated, especially since I was alone. It took me 4:30 from Como Lake to the summit.
This climb was far more difficult that Capitol Peak, Pyramid Peak, or N. Maroon, and, I think, less aesthetic in both the scenery and the climbing. The West "Ridge" route is a snow route, not a rock route. Climb it in May, not September.
If you choose to climb this route in the summer, BRING A HARNESS, a sling, and a 'biner (or ascenders) so that you can self-belay the section with with a fixed line.
Began from a camp below the face. I chose to climb the inital wall to the right of the two distinct black water marks. I think I chose a poor route initially because I found myself in some very exposed and difficult climbing. Once above this I continued more or less straight up towards the first prominant notch below Little Bear's summit. There was plenty of loose rock around, but it is avoidable. Test every hold! Roach's guide mentions that the most difficult and exposed climbing is right below the ridge, however I would say most of the climbing is pretty consistent. The route alternates between hiking up steep and loose boulder fields and 4th class slabs. The final climb along the ridge is airy and exciting.
I reached the summit after about 1hr 40min from my camp and decided to traverse over to South Little Bear. I stayed on the ridge for a short while and then decided to drop down on the west side and traverse across boulder fields until the final scramble to the summit. The views of Blanca and the Blanca traverse were great. On the way back I decided to stay directly on the ridge which involved a lot of 3rd/4th class scrambling. The ridge isn't very well traveled and quite loose. On one steep 4th class downclimb I nearly pulled out a big screen TV sized block on top of me!
Rather than going all the way back to the summit I intersected the West Ridge route above the hourglass. Three fellows from NE/KS were deciding to turn around so I went with them to avoid being in the hourglass with them above me. That was a good idea because they knocked rocks down with every step. Once we were below I raced back to camp, packed up my stuff and headed back to my car.