Hourglass to LB/Blanca Traverse to Blanca/Ellingwood Ridge to Ellingwood SW Ridge. The 'Hourglass' was not as bad as I expected; however, it was dry and we were alone on the peak. We dislodged a few rocks and these puppies sure were missiles heading down the gully. As for the fixed lines, double check the mess of anchors...quite a bit of the webbing (and ropes for that matter) looked sketch, to say the least!
did it midweek... I got chased down last year by hail and lightning. This year I didnt have that problem at all. No one else on the route while I was there that day. The hourglass was not as bad as it hyped to be in my opinion. I think that I had played it up in my mind some. Lots of loose rock. no question.
Glad to have climbed this mountain - great character building. Hourglass was of course very wet - climbed up to the left of the worst of it. Used a rope we brought to rap down. One person in our party was hit on the helmet with a rock - it's a pretty scary thing to see! She was ok.
Seven AM on top via the hourglass from Lake Como. I like getting up early - particularly for a humdinger of a mountain like this one. Wow.
Climbed the NW Face route with Jamie Nellis. Started to rain a little just below the summit. It was short lived, but we unfortunately had to descend the hourglass with wet rock. I don't know what its like dry, but wet the hourglass was scary!
Started at 0400 at the big parking lot just off hwy 150 (8000ft). 0930 I made Lake Como. Approx. 1215, I made it to the "Hourglass Couloir." By 1300, I was on the top. 1345 to 1500 got hailed and rained on, and by 1900 I was back to the car. The "fixed lines" were pretty manky (one had a ten foot section of missing sheath), and both had been cut out and retied, but they held me on descent. It's probably safer to do as a spring snow climb. Glad to have been solo up in the "bowling alley". Outstanding time!
We went up and camped in one of the huts at Lake Como on the 21st and woke up and headed up the first couloir up to the ridge around 4:45AM. On top of the ridge we had some fantastic views of the alpenglow consuming the valley as the sun rose.
The hourglass was in fairly good shape, although there were a couple spots where the snow was so hard that we were simply frontpointing it with our crampons as if we were climbing a waterfall in Ouray or something. Anyways, this is perhaps my favorite 14'er to date as both the climb and the views from the top were absolutely breathtaking.
Great snow climb of the Hourglass. Great weather and a great summit!
Awesome weather and spectacular snow climb. Mostly snow in the hourglass all the way to the summit. Some tricky downclimbing, but a great glissade back to the lake.
Yep, a long, endless talus route - considering the tread wear on my Asolos, I left about $40 dollars of boot on the ridge. However, I didn't have to dodge any rocks or yell a single embarrassing "ROCK!" from rocks I kicked loose. The traverse from South Little Bear to Little Bear took almost 2 hours - lots of route finding. But the return trip took just under 20 minutes (we knew the way by then). Use a GPS with trackback turned on for the bushwhacking!
Fantastic climb - my first Class 4 peak......and I loved it! We started hiking the Lake Como road at 2:00am, reached the lake by 6:00am, and summitted around 9am. We were fortunate to be the first up the hourglass that day, which lessened the risk of rockfall. We only saw 3 other people on the mountain that day (with very good weather too!)
March 15, 2013- winter summit with emily and jason via the southwest ridge. terrain got interesting just before the southern summit, and didn't relent. the ledges leading to the main summit are fantastic when covered in snow!
May 6, 2007- jamie and i climbed the hourglass today. it was alot steeper(55 degrees) than expected. perch made for an awesome snow climb on really hard snow....feet still hurt from kicking steps!
July 25, 2006- climbed the northwest face(hand route) in 1:59 from the como area high camp in preparation for the traverse to blanca. it wasn't super exposed like i expected, but it was nice to ascend another way than the hourglass.
What Brad said. Daytrip from the road.
Kalet and I had this peak all to ourselves on a very rainy day. Started the traverse to Blanca, but couldn't see anything b/c of thick fog, and everything was dangerously wet from the incessant rain. Turned back, climbed back over LB and descended via the soaking wet hourglass.
4 wheeled for a while up the road, hiked in and did ellingwood and blanca. Great weather, set up a bivy and climbed little bear the next day via nw face. Fantastic 4th class climbing. Descended the hourglass, scary rockfall. All in all, best 14er to date.
Good fun, the hourglass is everything it is hyped up to be. Start early. We had perfect weather and the summit all to ourselves.
Fun outing, I second the Gator Farm and for Pete's sake, don't bring you dog on this climb.
Good Times! Be sure to stop by the Gator Farm and the UFO Observation Tower on the way out of the valley!
The keyword for this mountain is route-finding! Had perfect weather though, mountain to myself. Ice in the hourglass in the AM and a veritable stream in the PM. BE CAREFUL! It is MUCH looser above the hourglass than what you might have read. If you take your time, this is actually an enjoyable climb.
Easily the most difficult route on any mountain I have done, but I am not much of a rock climber. Very airy ridge indeed. I was testing the hand and footholds! We hoped to have a nice snow climb in the hourglass but the lack of snow made us go with the n.w. face.