One of the farthest walls from the trailhead at North Shore, Little Guide's Wall does not see the traffic that Middle Earth Wall does, yet it has a nice assortment of moderates plus several 5.11 routes (I know some people are calling 11a moderate now, but come on).
These are single-pitch sport routes on sharp, sometimes-chossy limestone. Most are 30-40' in length.
The right-most route here is next to the left end of Buzzard's Roof, a pretty distinguishing feature.
Trail Split-- go right for all but Matrix, Dude, and Unleashed
Reimers Ranch is located off Hamilton Pool Road about 6 miles west of its intersection with Ranch Road 12. It is about 45 minutes west from downtown Austin.
Once through the entrance station, drive to the end of the road (around 4 miles from the entrance station), following signs for "North Bank."
The main access trail starts by the trash bins.
Take the main trail down and then bear right, crossing the stream, at the junction shown above. Walk 15 minutes or so, past marked spurs to first Middle Earth Wall and then Gypsy Wall, until the trail heads up to the cliffs. Pass some other walls to reach Little Guide's. The trail takes you right to the middle of the crag. Buzzard's Roof is just to the right. A short distance left is Awesome Roof, easily identified by the many permadraws. If you love roof traverses on permadraws, there is a 5.8 with an 11a extension (the 5.8 messes with people enough because of the hanging permadraws that you clip from behind), and there is a longer 12d (and several other options).
From left to right:
- Call of the Wild Man, 5.11b
- Wild Men Wear Heels, 5.11c-d
- Leap of Faith, 5.10c
- Live Action, 5.10d-11a R
- War on Choss, 5.11b
- Rattled, 5.11b-c
- Menopause Mania, 5.11a
- White Horse Mescalito, 5.11a-- The crux is pulling the roof below the anchors; all the great jugs disappear and you need to work with crimps to get the feet up. This crux is well-protected. Before that, it's fun, juggy 5.9-5.10 climbing.
- Bengy Bengy Fever, 5.10a-- Weird starting sequence may leave you questioning the grade. Pumpy finish.
- Bergargle, 5.11a-- Crux is the start; then it's easy and fun.
- PLD, 5.9-- Maybe it was just that day's conditions, but I found this dirty and unpleasant, and harder than the 10bs by it.
- Champaign and Strawberries, 5.10b-- Fun climb. Crux is pulling the roof.
- What a Load, 5.10b PG-- Also fun. Crux is thin stuff above the last bolt.
- Cursed Ascent, 5.7/5.8-- The first time I climbed this, it felt 5.8 because of an awkward sequence to reach the anchors. The second time, I tried a different approach and felt it was more like 5.7.
- Rambo Princess, 5.6/5.7-- Only one real climbing move on this and the rest is a scramble. This route is so ledgy that you might consider rapping down instead of lowering and toproping.
- Choose Your Path, 5.9-- Very cool sequence to the anchors.
- Bound to Divide, 5.8-- Somewhat chossy but a nice warm-up or cool-down.